choke, panel and helper

scubarider · Post by **scubarider** » Sun Dec 02, 2007 4:16 pm

Just wanted to show some pictures of the choke that we fabricated and the panel. Choke now works great. Gotta find the little barrels that go on the actual choke assembly that attach to the cable. Ideas?
Thanks!
Dennis
p.s. And a picture of my helper doing her favorite "tool" ---the cleco!

stede52 · Post by **stede52** » Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:00 pm

Dennis, this is probably what you need. It came with the 912 choke control assembly I bought from Downwind Technology. Give them a call and see were they get them. 715.355.8175. The choke cable goes thru the barrel and there are set screws on each end which tighten down on the cable itself.

Steve

scubarider · Post by **scubarider** » Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:25 pm

Thanks Steve, that is exactly what I need. Do they have a website or catalog? If not, I will give them a call.
Dennis

DaveU · Post by **DaveU** » Sun Dec 02, 2007 10:32 pm

I ordered the swivels from Locwood aviation, 1-800-LA-ROTAX. The part number is: BR01 $0.60 each, needed 2.

They worked fine for me.

Dave

b1x4nqb · Post by **b1x4nqb** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:27 pm

I'm looking for the end pieces that I put on to lock it to this piece? I have a solid choke cable and I need to hook it to this brass piece sticking out. Any ideas what the piece is? It must be a simple little crimp on thing that fits this groove.

Paul, PA

DaveU · Post by **DaveU** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:43 pm

Paul,
I ordered the brass ones, called: crimp on type ferrule ends, part number TF1, page 169 of the 2006-2007 lockwood Aviation catalog.

I was able to solder it to the cable end, but I put a very short, tight 90 degree bend in the wire after I slipped the ferrule on. That way if the solder fails, the end can not slip off.

Call me if this was not clear.

DAve U.

PS, I am excited for you to get this project turned into an airplane.

b1x4nqb · Post by **b1x4nqb** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 7:44 am

Thanks Dave. I know the exact part. I stared at it last evening and even googled it looking for a picture. Glad I was on track. I'll order it today. The panel is in, just wiring things up.

Thanks again,
Paul, PA

b1x4nqb · Post by **b1x4nqb** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:35 pm

I got my throttle on today but ran into an issue with the choke. I have the same splitter as Dennis and on the end it has a sleeve that the end clamps down onto instead of fraying up the cable. The issue is trying to thread this sleeve down through the choke guide on the engine. Did you guys just remove this sleeve? A little round ball that slides, sits next to it as well. I don't see it's purpose. Any suggestions?

Paul, PA

scubarider2 · Post by **scubarider2** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:08 pm

Paul, my cables did not come with ends. If you can't get the ends through the choke cable insert then just cut the ends, tape them, slip them through, tighten down the screw,,,,,and your done.

Dennis

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 4:30 pm

Dennis:
Can you fill me in on a couple of things? I got my choke cable from LEAF. One cable is 16" and the other one is 27-1/2 inches. Why the difference in length of the two, and I see by your picture of last Dec. the seventh, I believe, where your choke cable sheath enters that knurled piece on the choke guide. Does it just sit there, or do you solder it in?
Roger

scubarider2 · Post by **scubarider2** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:51 pm

Roger, I am not sure about the different lengths other than it is determined by where you put it in the firewall you may need a longer end to go across the motor. As far as the ends going into the brass fittings...I did not have to do anything but push them in. The pressure on the bend holds them in. You could safety wire them in by the looping method. I did that for the throttle cables. Hope that helps.
Dennis

b1x4nqb · Post by **b1x4nqb** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:30 pm

Roger,

I think we have the same splitter and I just bent the piano wire so it would go into the bottom of the splitter itself, wrap up the back of it then bent forward into a downward angle. Combine this with the two choke cables pulling in the oposite direction and being on springs, I think it will stay put. I did like scuba and used the barrel to go through the firewall and secured with two hose clamps on each side. With respect to the different lengths, I couldn't figure that one out either so I came out the firewall sllightly to one side and I re-adjusted those brass 1/4 bend guide sleeves so they face slightly forward rather than back towards the firewall to relieve some of the extra length of the cables and all the odd angles. The choke pulls out really tough but it seems to work fine. I hope that helps a little.

Paul, PA

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:55 am

Thanks Paul:
Did you solder the piano wire at the end of that brass piece inside the tube, and how did you anchor the end of the spiral tube that sorounds the piano wire,into the end of the spliter? I'm probably a little dense on reading your post, but I wasn't sure how you ment to go through the brass piece. Did you run the wire through the center and just bend it over?
Thanks
Roger

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choke, panel and helper

choke, panel and helper

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