If I were to build another one.

[CanadianSheepHunter]

If I were to build another one, I would:

1. Put the fuel vents just outboard of the fuel caps. As it is you cannot completely fill the tanks as the edges of the filler hole captures maybe a gallon of air in the upper portion of the tanks.

2. Put some kind of buffer material, maybe some weatherstrip, between the upper forward headrack windshield former and the windshield material. It rattles something fierce during taxi.

3. Get the tuned 4-into-1 header system and use a motorcycle muffler something like what Lynn is using instead of the Toucan mufflers. The Toucan requires a heavy cross brace between the tail pipes to keep from shearing off the locating rivet and, just by it's design, has to have more horsepower robbing backpressure than the newer header system. And Lynn's is so quiet!

4. Use the Polyfiber system all the way through final paint. I used polyurethane paint and now I will have a serious problem repairing any damage as MEK will not strip it off. Woe is me!

5. Paint all exposed powder coated parts. The contractor Just uses puts the bare minimun thickness on all parts and now I have rusting struts and cross bracing in the cockpit. The powder coating should be considered as primer only.

There will probably be some other stuff I'll remember later and I'll add it. Feel free to add your own thoughts.

When you refer to Number 1. is that on a SS? And has anyone else found this same thing when filling their wing tanks that a gallon of air is not fillable near the fuel cap??

Alan (starting second annual inspection with 190 hours)

[CanadianSheepHunter]

And when you say a gallon of air...do you mean a gallon of air in each wing tank or with both wing tanks combined ?

If I were to build another one, I would:

1. Put the fuel vents just outboard of the fuel caps. As it is you cannot completely fill the tanks as the edges of the filler hole captures maybe a gallon of air in the upper portion of the tanks.

2. Put some kind of buffer material, maybe some weatherstrip, between the upper forward headrack windshield former and the windshield material. It rattles something fierce during taxi.

3. Get the tuned 4-into-1 header system and use a motorcycle muffler something like what Lynn is using instead of the Toucan mufflers. The Toucan requires a heavy cross brace between the tail pipes to keep from shearing off the locating rivet and, just by it's design, has to have more horsepower robbing backpressure than the newer header system. And Lynn's is so quiet!

4. Use the Polyfiber system all the way through final paint. I used polyurethane paint and now I will have a serious problem repairing any damage as MEK will not strip it off. Woe is me!

5. Paint all exposed powder coated parts. The contractor Just uses puts the bare minimun thickness on all parts and now I have rusting struts and cross bracing in the cockpit. The powder coating should be considered as primer only.

There will probably be some other stuff I'll remember later and I'll add it. Feel free to add your own thoughts.

Alan (starting second annual inspection with 190 hours)

[CanadianSheepHunter]

When you refer to Number 1. is that on a SS? And has anyone else found this same thing when filling their wing tanks that a gallon of air is not fillable near the fuel cap??

If I were to build another one, I would:

1. Put the fuel vents just outboard of the fuel caps. As it is you cannot completely fill the tanks as the edges of the filler hole captures maybe a gallon of air in the upper portion of the tanks.

2. Put some kind of buffer material, maybe some weatherstrip, between the upper forward headrack windshield former and the windshield material. It rattles something fierce during taxi.

3. Get the tuned 4-into-1 header system and use a motorcycle muffler something like what Lynn is using instead of the Toucan mufflers. The Toucan requires a heavy cross brace between the tail pipes to keep from shearing off the locating rivet and, just by it's design, has to have more horsepower robbing backpressure than the newer header system. And Lynn's is so quiet!

4. Use the Polyfiber system all the way through final paint. I used polyurethane paint and now I will have a serious problem repairing any damage as MEK will not strip it off. Woe is me!

5. Paint all exposed powder coated parts. The contractor Just uses puts the bare minimun thickness on all parts and now I have rusting struts and cross bracing in the cockpit. The powder coating should be considered as primer only.

There will probably be some other stuff I'll remember later and I'll add it. Feel free to add your own thoughts.

Alan (starting second annual inspection with 190 hours)

[alan]

A gallon is an estimated amount and spread between the 2 9 gallon fiberglass tanks. The fuel filler hole was inset because the fuel caps are flush to the top of the wing.

As far as the question about Number 1 I can't to remember what I was referring. That was 13 years ago.

Alan

[CanadianSheepHunter]

Ok, thanks I’m using aluminum Superstol tanks and it sounds like the SS tanks don’t do this.

[alan]

Correct. I've replaced my original fiberglass tanks with the SS tanks as well.

Alan

[kenryan]

Are you guys saying the SuperSTOL tanks fit in the Highlander? That's interesting. I thought the SuperSTOL airfoil was considerably thicker than the Highlander. Maybe not?

[SheepdogRD]

Are you guys saying the SuperSTOL tanks fit in the Highlander? That's interesting. I thought the SuperSTOL airfoil was considerably thicker than the Highlander. Maybe not?

You're correct. The SuperSTOL tanks and Highlander tanks are not interchangeable.

[alan]

Sorry Sheepdog. The SS tanks will fit in the Highlander. I replaced my 9 gallon fiberglass tanks with SS tanks in 2016 after a trip to the factory to pick them up. I spent several hours with Jak learning how he was installing them for the first time in a factory built Highlander. Because of the airfoil differences 2 ribs must be replaced.

Alan

[SheepdogRD]

Highlander and SuperSTOL aluminum tanks are very similar, but not the same. Jak said the SS tanks are about 1-1/2" taller.

[kenryan]

Highlander and SuperSTOL aluminum tanks are very similar, but not the same. Jak said the SS tanks are about 1-1/2" taller.

Thanks.

[BDA]

SuperStol Door latch sucks!!

I will not wait for next build to fix this.

I have had the pilot door pop open in flight in 3 different superstols.
And have had mine come open on takeoff 3 times during tch n gos. Yesterday in high wind it went into full flutter and ripped off in flight, bounced off the tail and entered the patern on its own.
Will add door latch check to landing checklist now.

Someone on here suggested putting rivets in the door sill tube on either side of where the latch will sit, that is my next project. Sorry I did not do this from the begining. I thought extra tension on the latch would be enough - it is not.

I must be contacting the latch with my leg as I use the rudder.

If I were to build again, I would relocate the latch forward so that my leg will not hit it, OR use a REAL door latch to begin with.

[Clark in AZ]

Yesterday in high wind it went into full flutter and ripped off in flight, bounced off the tail and entered the patern on its own.

Boy, I bet that was exciting! Agreed, a real door latch is needed.

Clark

[stpilot09]

SuperStol Door latch sucks!!

I will not wait for next build to fix this.

I have had the pilot door pop open in flight in 3 different superstols.
And have had mine come open on takeoff 3 times during tch n gos. Yesterday in high wind it went into full flutter and ripped off in flight, bounced off the tail and entered the patern on its own.
Will add door latch check to landing checklist now.

Someone on here suggested putting rivets in the door sill tube on either side of where the latch will sit, that is my next project. Sorry I did not do this from the begining. I thought extra tension on the latch would be enough - it is not.

I must be contacting the latch with my leg as I use the rudder.

If I were to build again, I would relocate the latch forward so that my leg will not hit it, OR use a REAL door latch to begin with.

Holy sheep shit!
One of the guys I fly with put a secondary latch on his, on the front door post. To my knowledge I don't think he's had any issues with it. He's on here, he goes my MAC he's in grassvalley, Ca. Maybe get a picture of his.

Tim

[BDA]

Ya, to say the least.

Heavy X-wind, 75’ off the ground, after 3rd tch at the end of the runway, hard left turn trying to hang onto the flapping door while dodging the ILS marker lights, and telling the tower that I would be comming back VERY shortly.
Door trying to beat me too death, and X-wind trying to suck me out.