Tailwheel

[Lynng]

After being asked about my tailwheel many times I wanted to find the guy that makes them and publish his info here.  I had to have my ears angled back 25 degrees for more steering leverage on my airplane. He build custom so just let him know.

Lynn


http://www.irondesign-airparts.com/index.html

[b1x4nqb]

Lynn,

Is it grooved properly to fit into our tail spring?  How many hours do you have on yours at this point? Wonder if he would he do a group discount?

Thanks,
Paul

[ftcaruso]

It was because of my inquiry to Lynn for info on her tail wheel, that she posted here. (and I appreciate her prompt response).   Ever since originally installed, the Matco tail wheel that  came with my kit has been producing some degree of shimmy.  We had replaced the original unit with their later model that incorporates a grease fitting and then channeled out the upper mounting plate step for a better fit and alignment with the tail wheel spring, both to no avail.  There is still shimmy, and more troubling some recent occasional binding which causes the plane to veer dramatically to the right once the tail wheel settles on the pavement.  Later today (after it warms up) I will head over to the airport to jack up the tail and examine it more closely see what might be causing this problem.  However, I am getting close to deciding on an alternate tail wheel, which I had narrowed down to either the $900 Scott 3200 or the “standard” Alaskan Bushwheel $1,000 clone of the Scott. Both seem more substantial and heavier duty and incorporate a bearing assembly.  However now that Lynn has sent me the info on her unit, for $650 the Iron Design unit looks pretty good.  Are any of you using something other than the factory supplied Matco wheel?  If so, what have been your results...especially on pavement landings.

Frank

[alan]

I had lots of problems with my original Matco tailwheel, from lack of steering, binding, to abrupt uncommanded turns. It was so bad I couldn't even fly off of pavement at first; grass only for 10 hours or so. Finally I located a Maule SFS-P8B Series.
From Wicks Aircraft Supply the item # is TWS1-4P8B Tundra Tailwheel Assy.   $373.23 in Sep of 2006. It is only 9#, 2# heavier than the Matco. I have perfect control in all phases of ground operations.

Alan

[ftcaruso]

Allen-

I did look into the Maule Tundra model P8B (which is now up to $450 at Aircraft Spruce) but was “discouraged” by the comments of someone who is more knowledgeable about tailwheels than I.   I would like to learn a bit more about what Lynn thinks about her Iron Design unit.  When I jacked up my tail this afternoon, I found looseness and “slop” on the main castle nuts on my swivel assembly.  I tightened up everything one “notch”, including the bolts on the ears, and did some high speed taxiing and then one TO and landing and everything seemed to function normally.  Tomorrow I will head over to a nearby non-towered airport for an hour of touch and goes, on pavement, to see if this may have corrected the problem.  But I consider this a temporary fix only, and still plan to make a change in the near future.  Thanks for your input and thoughts on the Maule.  Since this will not be an inexpensive fix, I would appreciate all comments that may be offered.

Frank

[taildrgfun]

I have an Alaskan Bushwheel on my plane now and I like it real well. I am just borrowing it though and they are SO expensive. I have used 2 maules and a Matco and not been very impressed with any of them. I would really like to try one like Lynn has.  :)

[fiferphil]

Hmmmm...tail wheel shimmy...Hmmm....

After sitting thru many takoffs and landings in the rear seat of a Super Decathlon, I started noticing an increasing tendancy for the tailwheel (a Scott 3200) to get into a shimmy mode during both takeoffs or landings (I used to give tailwheel transition training). After doing all the checking, tightening, lubricating, shimming, inflating, etc, stc, to no avail, I finally gave the American Champion facatory a call.  They informed me that over time and many landings the  arch in the mounting spring assembly tends to flatten out and weaken. This weakening and flattening  of the spring(s) causes a  change to the angle at which the wheel comes in contact with the ground, which in turn caused the shimmy. This condition can be  aggrevated by having a lard-assed instructor in the back seat (me), putting more weight on the tailwheel. The remedy was to re-arch the spring(s) or replace them with new ones. I replaced the springs and had no further problem.

I wonder if the same things that caused the problem  with the Scott tail wheel could also vex the Matco; also, is the spring supplied in our kits is heavy duty enough to do what we are asking of it?

[ftcaruso]

First, I want to thank Steve, Phil, Lynn and Allen for your input.  You all have so much more tail wheel time than I (prior to the Highlander, I last flew a tail dragger over a half century ago), so I put a lot of credence in your suggestions and recommendations.  While I had been concerned with the shimmy and excessive “chirping”  that had begun to develop, of more concern was the violent pull of more than 60 degrees to the right that had occurred just prior to slowdown to turn off speed during my previous two landings at Hilton Head.  I first believed that it was due to a lack of proficiency with pavement landings on my part.  However, when it happened a second time in a row, (accompanied by a “Whoa, whoa, whoa” from the tower controller) I knew that I had a more serious problem on hand.  I have now done more than a dozen touch and gos since I tightened up all of the nuts that hold my tail gear together, with no more binding, pulling or even a shimmy.  However, I know that this is a temporary fix, and I will soon make a change in my tail gear model.  While I fully realize that the economics of selling a $25,000 kit does not allow Just Aircraft to supply other than a basic tail wheel component, I am not opposed to upgrading to something that may be more forgiving of my inexperience.  While I have not yet made a final decision, I believe that it will lie somewhere between the “standard” $350 Maule and the “standard” $1,000 AK Bushwheel.  This seems to leave either a Scott or the Iron Design in contention.  Both have received high marks by those who have recommended them.

Frank

[Lynng]

Scott at Iron Design is offering great tailwheels for about half the price of the AK bushwheel and I can honostly say it is a great design.  My tailwheel has great handling and I have nothing but good things to say about the price compared to other set ups. One advantage for those of you with the Corvair or 0-200 is the bushwheel is 10# 8 oz. so your WB will be taken care of without the lead weight in the tail.  I did have my steering tabs moved slightly to give me tighter steering so I have to send Scott photos now that I have 100 hours on the airplane and can say beyond a doubt it works great. Happy flying  :)  :)

[Lynng]

[b1x4nqb]

Is it $825 or $850 +s&h

[082]

The tailwheel mfgered by Iron Design (a great one by the way) was designed by Bearhawk designer Bob Barrrows.  Last I knew he was still selling plans for the tailwheel.  I have a set. I think I payed $25 for the plans.  Check with Bob.
R&B Aircraft
540-473-3661

[b1x4nqb]

More info on the tailwheel described above.

http://mybearhawk.com/fuselage/tailwheel1.html

[Lynng]

Correction

The tailwheel is 850+sh

[Scott-Iron Design L.L.C.]

Hi folks,
  Many may have been wondering why the make of the Iron Design tail wheel has not spoken up.. To be honest I did not know the discussion had been taking place until many phone calls to me over the last few days.  So now I have read through the many comments and my thanks to Lynn for providing much information to you guys.  If I can, I would like to provide a bit more on the details of the wheel. All parts are 4130N- all welding done by myself.

1)- as can been seen on the web site, I have just a few simple parts that allow the function of the wheel to remain almost free of any adjustments.  I have a locking pin, a spring, a bushing (bronze), a cam roller with An3 bolt- and a bearing. That is it. All told, about $30 worth. I have over 1000 hours one wheel, 800 on another, and 1000's of landings.(with no repairs)  Over 100 wheels out on the market.
2) The wheels were static tested to well over 1200 pounds. In fact the threads on the AN7 spring attach bolt pulled through the nut, the three leaf spring bent permanetly and the wheel was still functioning. This was done in 100# step/test increments. I think you all know if you ever would apply a 1200# load to your tail wheel, you would have far greater things to worry about on your airframe.
3) I have the tail wheels on from the lightest tailwheel load (ultralights) to the full gross Bearhawk at 2900# (beyond gross) Also have one running around on the rock beaches of Alaska on a RV8 with 8.50 x 6.00 front mains.
4) spring angle is set for any of the standard tail wheel set ups with 1.5" spring. I do have a few 1.25" spaced ones.
5) I custom make stinger style springs and tail wheel set ups for those of you that like the rod flexability, these can range from 14" to 24" and tuned to your weight requirements.
6) tail wheels are always dirty, but we try hard to do the best paint work on them as we can. That has pretty much ruled out powder coat work in the last few years, as it does not seem to handle the constant peening from stones and sand.
7) three sizes  8", 10" and the tundra.  Truth be known, the 8" will take care of nearly any aircraft up to gross weights of 2500#  the 10" and tundra are for soft field conditions.  The larger you go, the more "arm momet" you have and the closer attention to proper tail wheel landing rules you need to follow. (this is true of all tail wheels as they increase in size-though we take steps to help with the increased weight with proper yoke arm angle and length)

Tail wheel work is always a black art on helping folks...but in the end if you start with a good wheel, the rest will lead you down to a great path of fun flying.

thanks for listening.

Scott
  [/b]