Aeroleds 1600 landing light installation

[fiferphil]

Hi Guys,

I was hoping to have this setup flight tested and proven before I published this but several requests for this info have come forth. It'll be a while before my bird flies so I thought I'd run this thing up the flagpole, now, and see  if anybody salutes or if it will be of any help to anyone.

In seeking a way of installing a pair of the AeroLED 1600 landing/recognition lights, and after consulting with several folks well aquainted with our airframe, we came up with the method of installation shown in the attachment.

For those of you that will be howling in dismay after you see this -- that's why we call ourselves experimenters.

Comments, questions, suggestions and critisisms welcome.

[jak]

Ok guy's this is Jak from the factory. There have been countless inquiries on how to put lights in the wings or wingtips. While the factory can take no official stand on this installation I personally feel it's the best in wing installation iv'e seen so far. I worked with phil on how to get the light in the tube and since they are real aircraft ligfhts and not automotive fog lights I think Phil has a winner here.  Jak

[Johnny C!]

Phil,

Very nicely done.

I was thinking along the same
lines, except I want my lights to
be night landing capable.

I have been working on covering
& getting my motor shipped, so I
have let the lighting project go to
the back burner for now...

Thanks for posting your method!

John

[fiferphil]

Hi John,

These lights are certainly bright enough to be used as landing and taxi lights, as that's their primary purpose. You have some capability to adjust them vertically and laterally so that they are aimed where you need 'em.

Also, you have the option of wiring to a separate switch that will give you a wig-wag setup to increase your visibility to other aircraft in your vacinity.

For more information on the AeroLED's 1600's, checkout their web site.  www.aeroleds.com

[alan]

So Phil,

You're covering your entire wing with plywood?

Alan

[fiferphil]

Alan,

Naw, just the top leading edge, first 12 inches. Several have done it with aluminum.  I choose plywood to try to eliminate the oil can effects that come with temperature changes.  I did this because I prefer a smooth leading edge as opposed to the scaloped effect that you get with the false ribs.  Since the photographs were taken, I added felt to the leading edge and the gas tank and have covered the wing.  So far things are turning out very well.

[stede52]

Alan,
The wood looks nice.  Just FYI and I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I have not noticed and kind of oil can affect using aluminum sheeting on the leading edge.

Steve

[fiferphil]

Hi Steve

Along with your observation, If I had it to do over again, I probably would use aluminum. Puttin' that plywood on was one helluva lot of extra work with all the gluing,  filling, sanding, varnishing etc, etc,not to mention what will probably amount to several pounds of extra weight.  Either that or go with the original design.

[stede52]

Alan, the Highlander flys soooooo great that a little extra weight won't hurt a thing, however, all that work does hurt the elbow The aluminum adds a bit of weight also and the performance of the leading edge wrap is probably negligible but I didn't care I liked the look. Your going to love it either way!!!!

Steve

[alan]

Phil,

I didn't mean to give you a hard time, I just noticed the plywood while checking out the pictures of the really cool landing/taxi light install. I was kind of hoping you were doing a complete wing cover just so you could tell us later on about the flying qualities. I was thinking it might be a little heavier, though. As far as oil canning goes, the tautened fabric should hold it tight enough to eliminate that possibility.

Have fun.

Alan

[fiferphil]

Ya know, Alan, I'd thought about doing just that, but the cost of shipping of the plywood was prohibitive. As it was, I had to settle for 2X4 sheets to avoid the trucking fees. (This was during the height of the fuel "crises") This, of course, added to the work involved in installation because I had seams to fill and feather out with body filler, etc. The ohly way I'd do this again is if I could get the plywood cut to the full span length. The good thing is that the rib cap strips make good gluing surfaces.  Also, I used 1/16 inch mahogany. I think there is some thinner stuff out there, and would probably opt to use that if I were doing a complete cover job with it. ( Hard time? What hard time?--Ididn't notice any hard time )