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Re: Cabin Door Upgrade

PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:13 pm
by SheepdogRD
Thanks, Joe.
moving2time wrote:Did you happen to weigh the parts before assembling them for a total weight increase on both aircraft?

We didn't think to weigh the parts as we built them, but I went back and dug up the weights of the raw materials. The seal material is reinforced with a steel spring to make it grip, so it weighs 0.106 lb/ft, or about 1-3/4 pounds for both doors. The C-channel adds about the same amount, and the angle adds just under a pound total. Throw in the weight of rivets and epoxy, and the extrusion system should still be well under 5 pounds. Using the formed .032 aluminum probably cuts that back to under 4 pounds.

I remind myself that those big fat tires we've put on add 4 or 5 times as much weight as better doors.

Scot says it's well worth it...

Re: Sheepdog's Highlander Build-Yep New Posts :)

PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:04 pm
by moving2time
If you subscribe to the Carbon Cub philosophy, "Count the grams and save pounds," which I think is a good idea, every gram should be evaluated. That said I personally carry an hour's worth of fuel around everywhere I go so I could count every gram I put into a build and never save as much as I could by dieting! When I get to building my Highlander I would improve the door seals in a heart beat. Still an impressive post. Now about that build manual! Can I reserve my copy? Joe B

Re: Sheepdog's Highlander Build-Yep New Posts :)

PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:42 pm
by SuperFly
I agree with Jak. Painting a fuselage is tough. And tedious. And you'll use way more paint than you think. (most of it going into over spray) Did you know a round tube has six to eight sides. you cant cover it in four passes. Wont happen. Unless there is some super secret trick I was not able to locate. In order to cover the tube evenly and make it look nice, it will take that many passes up and down the tube.
I had my fuse powder coated, then when I welded on the SS gear, I had to epoxy primer the areas I welded on. Then I wanted it black where it would be seen. and just as Jak said, you wont believe how many spots you or others will find that you missed. It is astounding. And frustrating.
If you are looking for a serious alternative, I know there is some type of electrostatic liquid paint process where by a charge is applied to the metal and the opposite charge is applied to the paint and then spray.(much like powder coat is applied) That would cut down on overspray, but I know next to nothing of the process or even what paints are compatible. It may not even be and option.
In addition to what people have posted on here, another thing that I found incredibly frustrating about painting my fuselage is how uneven it came out. The problem is that as you are spraying, you get a good finish on one tube, then as you move around, the over spray from another tube gets onto the previously very nice finish and makes it look bad. and this happens nearly every time you pull the trigger.

I cant give you the best option, but I can tell you, I personally would certainly avoid painting the fuse if I were able on future projects...

Re: Sheepdog's Highlander Build-Yep New Posts :)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 3:28 pm
by SheepdogRD
SuperFly wrote:I agree with Jak. Painting a fuselage is tough... I personally would certainly avoid painting the fuse if I were able on future projects...

We followed the advice we got on the Forum and had the fuselage powder coated. I've never been sorry. We had it done in black instead of the then-standard white, but today I'd choose the standard gray color. I've never found a flaw in the coating, and I've seen most parts up very close. i don't see any way we could have matched the factory powder coat quality with anything we could do ourselves. Our local powder coat facility, which has done a good deal of work for us, wouldn't have been cheaper. Powder coating was a good investment, and there was no work involved.