I'm ready to cover wings, any helpful suggestions?

[xpflyr]

Cover wings before the fuselage?
Does it matter?
Check list before I cover,, etc, pulleys on, cables in, flap return spring secure, ___________?
One piece for bottom, shrink then rivet, then do top, rivet, then tape over that?
3 inch tape around perimeter of wing?
Use the piece I cut out to do flaps and ailerons?

Is there a check list out there or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks, Don.

[warlev]

Don: If you contact Stewart Systems they will send you a CD package that covers all aspects of covering, and it's free. Good people to deal with. Warren

[xpflyr]

Don: If you contact Stewart Systems they will send you a CD package that covers all aspects of covering, and it's free. Good people to deal with. Warren

Yes Warren, I got that DVD awhile ago.
I was thinking more of if I did everything on the wing before I closed it out and if there were anything else builders who did cover wish they did.
THANKS.

[Jim 541]

Pitot installed?

[stede52]

I build the pitot assemble so I can install it and the tubing (after I've covered and painted the wing) thru an inspection plate next to the pitot tube rib.
-I installed the pulleys and cabling prior to covering.
-install the flap spring in the flap prior to covering.
-make sure you glue in blocks between the fuel tank and butt rib in at least two places on the bottom and top of the the rib or they will not bow in when you shrink the covering.
-make sure you install the wing tip rib brace tubes to upper and lower part of the rib, again it will bow when shrinking the fabric
-use on piece of fabric for each side of the wing.
-cover bottom wing first
-if you use stewarts, pre glue perimeter and the bottom of each rib and allow to tack up(per instructions).
-lay the fabric evenly over the bottom of the wing and press the fabric onto each rib (one at a time)starting with with the middle rib and moving out to the ends. start by pressing the fabric down at the center of each rib and moving out to the leading and trailing edges. Make sure each rib bay is free of wrinkles, then press down the perimeter, does not need to be tight, just flat and even.
-final glue each rib and parimeter per stewart instructions
-complete the top of the wing however do not glue each rib top only the parimeter of the wing per the instructions.
-can anyone think of anything else?

[xpflyr]

Thanks Steve,, as usual.
I think I covered all you stated, I will recheck,, yet again. ( At some point you have to say enough and just do it! )

I cut my pitot tube off and installed a connector just out where it goes through the skin. I knew from experience I would bend it or catch it on something moving the wing around. I thought I did a good job until I looked at your picture and the way you did yours. They should put that in the manual. In fact, why don't you just write, design your own manual? I know I would pay extra for it.

On the inboard rib, after you're done, you trim it off flush with a razor or scissor?
I didn't see anyone use felt to cover the leading edge like they did in the Stewarts video. Did you?

Once again thanks!

just so all know,,, I did do a search to find many useful hits on covering. Many, many good post.
I just wanted to see if anything new popped up.

[stede52]

Stewart recommended not using felt on a the highlander because of the additional weight, I didn't and I don't notice any kind of oil canning noise on my leading edge wrap.

I like to wrap the fabric around both the inboard and outboard rib after the wing is covered and glue dried. if you slit the overhang part that gets wrapped around the cap strip every couple inches it makes it easier to glue down with less puckers and bubbles.

[SheepdogRD]

Thanks, Steve. Those tips will help a lot when I get to covering -- with Stewart products. In looking at your installation picture, I wonder:

The manual says the Pitot tube goes on rib 5, but rib 5 places the tube very near the struts. It looks like you've installed on rib 4. Is that to get it in cleaner air?

It also looks like your tube is longer on both ends than the one I got. Did you fabricate your own?

[stede52]

Yes I made on out of stainless, I placed mine were I did to keep people (like mysefl ) from running into it. As you can see I put it to the inside of the strut were you are most likely no going to walk into it. I also made it longer to try to get it into cleaner air but I'm not sure how affective it was.

Just a reminder about stewart paint and auto gas and the area around the filler cap, If I had to do it all over again I would use and two part auto primer (auto fuel proof) around the filler cap rather then the stewart primer. then apply the stewart paint over it and then seal the edge of the stewart paint around the filler with some kind of clear paint or sealant that is auto fuel proof. The issue with stewart paint and is not the paint itself as much as it is the auto fuel working itself under the paint and attacking the stewart primer. The area around my filler cap is starting to bubble so I'm need to figure out something .

[gkremers]

Steve,
Getting closer to starting the covering with Stewarts. I know the DVD says not to glue the rib caps on top but you still installed the fabric rivets correct?. Also wondering if you glued the top edge of the aluminum rear cap or just the vertical part.

One other question, did you install fabric rivets on rib number two near the fuel tank on top and bottom. The top is blended into the fuel cell with super fill so I didn't think I would need rivets there.

Thanks,
Gary

I'll be ordering the windshield in September, can you ship 2 in the same box/create? My buddy is going to need one also.

[stede52]

Gary,
You don't glue the top but you obviously must glue the bottom capstrips, and yes I used the fabric rivets on top and bottom. I don't use rivets on either the top or bottom of the inboard or outboard ribs because I wrap and glue the fabric around the cap strips and the rivets interfere with the attachment of the wing tips and the transition panels I build for under the wing to the fuse. The rivets won't interfere with the fuel tank, however you are correct that they are not needed on the top of the ribs on either side of tank because you will be faring and glueing the fabric to the tank. Just make sure you put in the wood blocks and seal the gap on the inboard rib to the tank otherwise it will warp when you heat shrink the fabric on the bottom of the tank.

Yes I can fit two windshields in one box, that will definitely save you some money.

[gkremers]

Steve,
I wasn't clear on the aluminum question. I noticed some people glued the wing trailing edge top and bottom (approx 1") and other just glued the aft vertical portion of the wing trailing edge

This is pic from a few months ago of the part I'm referring to.

Thanks for your input...

Gary

DSC_0155.JPG

[stede52]

Gary,
I just glue the vertical part, however, you do want to put chafe tape on the aluminum edge on the top and bottom.

Another thing that really works well on the hinges, is to glue in a wood block between the aluminum hinge plates, its not required but it makes for a much stronger hinge post and cleans up the look of hinge.

[xpflyr]

Gary,
I just glue the vertical part, however, you do want to put chafe tape on the aluminum edge on the top and bottom.

Another thing that really works well on the hinges, is to glue in a wood block between the aluminum hinge plates, its not required but it makes for a much stronger hinge post and cleans up the look of hinge.

Now you tell us!
They should put that in the manual. Good idea!
Don

[danerazz]

Got a picture of that? Having a little difficulty visualizing that.