Full Flaps
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Re: Full Flaps
This is just an arm chair opinion as I have yet to pull the trigger on my build, but with such a critical element as this would it not be one of those items that were CNC machined,the design evolution could also be computer generated as it matures,at least the product would be consistent and not suspect to craftsmanship.I know art has it's place but not in critical control pieces.Again,just an opinion.
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Re: Full Flaps
After I get the little squawks fixed I'll install my VGs and flap gap seals.
I had the flap gap seals installed, but when the flaps were fully retracted they rubbed on the top of the flaps. I could put some anti-chafe tape on the bottom of the gap seals, or could bend them up a couple of degrees?
I had the flap gap seals installed, but when the flaps were fully retracted they rubbed on the top of the flaps. I could put some anti-chafe tape on the bottom of the gap seals, or could bend them up a couple of degrees?
GDS
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
- Gil T
- Veteran Member
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- Location: Quartzsite AZ
Re: Full Flaps
This took care of most of my question on the flap deployment.
As far as your flap problem goes, I had the same thing. So I called our Highlander Guru Troy and asked him about it. I think the first thing he asked me was "do you keep you thumb on the push button when you're using the flaps?" I had never really thought about it but since then I just pull the handle until it pops into the notch and I haven't had any trouble unless I get in a hurry to put them down. You really shouldn't be putting them down at VNE anyway. If that technique is all it takes its a simpler fix than reworking the flap handle setup.
Gil T
As far as your flap problem goes, I had the same thing. So I called our Highlander Guru Troy and asked him about it. I think the first thing he asked me was "do you keep you thumb on the push button when you're using the flaps?" I had never really thought about it but since then I just pull the handle until it pops into the notch and I haven't had any trouble unless I get in a hurry to put them down. You really shouldn't be putting them down at VNE anyway. If that technique is all it takes its a simpler fix than reworking the flap handle setup.
Gil T
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Re: Full Flaps
If it only were as simple as that! I tried every method of deployment and airspeed and they would not stick. I have a flap gap seal and VGs installed.Gil T wrote:This took care of most of my question on the flap deployment.
If that technique is all it takes its a simpler fix than reworking the flap handle setup.
Gil T
The few times that they actually did stick in the last notch....they would pop out on their own some time after. Not something I wanted to deal with close to the ground. They work perfectly fine now that they have a secure notch which that cross bolt can lock into.
So glad I can experience the capability of full flaps now.
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Re: Full Flaps
I know my issue is not with having thumb pressure on the button, I don't use the button when I deploy the flaps, only when I retract.
Thinking out loud, I wonder if this could be fixed by welding a stiffener on the top of the flap handle. A 1/8" thick, 1/4" high, 6" long "dorsal fin" centered on the pivot point would prevent the handle from flexing under load.
Thinking out loud, I wonder if this could be fixed by welding a stiffener on the top of the flap handle. A 1/8" thick, 1/4" high, 6" long "dorsal fin" centered on the pivot point would prevent the handle from flexing under load.
GDS
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
- danerazz
- Veteran Member
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Re: Full Flaps
I had considered a "truss" for the flap handle that would be an offset rod on the bottom, stopping just short of where you put your hand and braced like a crane, but then thought about just using a larger diameter tube that could "sleeve" the existing one and add a little rigidity to it. I will wait and see how it goes before I do it, but that is my current thinking.
The electric flaps somebody had on here (sorry, can't remember whose that was) with a linear-motor pulling the cable instead of the handle, would solve this. I just don't want to add another "system" to what should be a pretty simple airplane.
I wish I could weld...
The electric flaps somebody had on here (sorry, can't remember whose that was) with a linear-motor pulling the cable instead of the handle, would solve this. I just don't want to add another "system" to what should be a pretty simple airplane.
I wish I could weld...
Dane
Paralysis by analysis
#242
Paralysis by analysis
#242
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Re: Full Flaps
Finally got a fix to my flap locking problem. Now that it's cold, I went flying and the flaps would not stay engaged at any position. When I push down on the button, it would stay down. When I got back on the ground, I inspected the mechanism, and the grease I had used to lubricate the system was cold and gummy with aluminum dust. also, the castle nut was a little too tight.
I disassembled everything and cleaned it up. Lubricated everything with molybdenum disulfide (a dry lube), doubled the spring and left the castle nut very loose on final assembly. Now all three flap positions hold well during flight.
I also added a knob to the flap release button. Now if it starts to stick again, I can pull on it to engage the bolt in the notches.
It's a relief having everything work correctly.
I disassembled everything and cleaned it up. Lubricated everything with molybdenum disulfide (a dry lube), doubled the spring and left the castle nut very loose on final assembly. Now all three flap positions hold well during flight.
I also added a knob to the flap release button. Now if it starts to stick again, I can pull on it to engage the bolt in the notches.
It's a relief having everything work correctly.
GDS
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
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Re: Full Flaps
I added a hand grip to my flap handle.
Just get any mountain bike grip you like with an allen key fastner on one end. I cut two pieces of 3/8 fuel hose about 1.5 in...split them in half...put the first one about where the grip with the clamp would end up, and slid the grip over it...then did the same for the top part. Clamp that allen key down and it is on there solid like it was made for it.
Just get any mountain bike grip you like with an allen key fastner on one end. I cut two pieces of 3/8 fuel hose about 1.5 in...split them in half...put the first one about where the grip with the clamp would end up, and slid the grip over it...then did the same for the top part. Clamp that allen key down and it is on there solid like it was made for it.
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- Jim 541
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Re: Full Flaps
Just a reminder that things can go wrong very quickly.
http://www.backcountrypilot.org/communi ... tory-14010
http://www.backcountrypilot.org/communi ... tory-14010
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Re: Full Flaps
Great link to story about flaps popping close to the ground. Mine have slipped from 2nd notch to 1st notch several times during landing, it gets your attention. Fortunately, in our deserts, the landing zone is not too small or steep, I've got extra space to add power, push the nose down and get some AS. That is another reason I put the knob on top of the flap handle. Before this, when I'm landing at a place that takes serious focus, I would set the flaps and exercise the handle to make sure it was set before I moved my hand to the throttle. Now I can set the flaps and pull up on the knob to check the engagement.
GDS
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
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Re: Full Flaps
Personally, I would not feel confident with just a grease job.
IMHO enlarging the inadequate locking slots is the only way to go. It's not rocket science here.
IMHO enlarging the inadequate locking slots is the only way to go. It's not rocket science here.
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Re: Full Flaps
User GDS wrote:I'm having the same problem with the 3rd notch of flaps. I took it apart and opened up that area, but they still won't catch. I can feel the detent, but it won't lock.
I removed a "short" 1/8" of material, leaving the line. When I get motivated to take it apart and redo it, I guess I'll take another 1/6".
What happens if you take too much material?
I don't think I'll miss the 3rd notch of flaps during the first ~10 hours of flying.
HS-JAT, as I posted on page 1, I filed open the brackets twice, removed about 3/16" of material off the bracket, it had no effect on my flap system. If you push the flap button down and it doesn't come back up all the way, it's the mechanism, not the bracket.
Next job is installing the VGs.
GDS
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
So Cal
Highlander #232
Rotax 912ULS, Dynon Skyview
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Re: Full Flaps
I've said it before but if you really want your flaps to work their best, including the handle, you need the flap gap seals and VG's.
Steve Henry, Wild West Aircraft
(the Dead Stick Take-off Guy)
(the Dead Stick Take-off Guy)
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Re: Full Flaps
Sorry I missed that.User GDS wrote:User GDS wrote:I'm having the same problem with the 3rd notch of flaps. I took it apart and opened up that area, but they still won't catch. I can feel the detent, but it won't lock.
I removed a "short" 1/8" of material, leaving the line. When I get motivated to take it apart and redo it, I guess I'll take another 1/6".
What happens if you take too much material?
I don't think I'll miss the 3rd notch of flaps during the first ~10 hours of flying.
HS-JAT, as I posted on page 1, I filed open the brackets twice, removed about 3/16" of material off the bracket, it had no effect on my flap system. If you push the flap button down and it doesn't come back up all the way, it's the mechanism, not the bracket.
Next job is installing the VGs.