Highlander kit 331 has arrived

[Bay State Flatlander]

My Highlander crate just arrived today and I've started doing inventory (kit #331). I've been following the forum for awhile and trying to take in as much as possible. After almost 20 years of thinking/planning/dreaming about building I'm finally all in. I found myself almost giddy while taking the top and side panels off the crate.

[SheepdogRD]

Welcome aboard. You're in for a fun ride.

[Johnny C!]

Congrats!

Enjoy the ride.

John

[Bay State Flatlander]

Thanks for the welcome. I am chipping away at inventory reconciliation. Things are looking good.
I can attest to the sturdy construction of the crate. Not only are there screws securing the lid from the top as expected but there are screws from the inside going up into the lid.



10,000 pieces flying in close formation.

[rnk]

Congratulations on your new "baby".

Just a curiosity question. I am considering purchasing a Highlander kit and was wondering if you would mind sharing which options (if any) you purchased and your reasoning?

Thanks, and good luck with your project!

[danerazz]

Not to interject, but in addition to what I already mentioned in other threads (big tanks, QB wings), I would recommend tabs on the forward fuselage to attach removable panels, and MAYBE tabs for rear side windows. I say maybe because I hysol-ed frames made of aluminum in and think it might be a better way to mount the windows.

Stede's molded windshield is really nice, but a somewhat pricey option (in the long run I think well with it), grab handles on BOTH sides of the tail would be handy, but absolutely not required.

The SS brake lines are way too expensive for what they are, 1/8" lines would be FAR cheaper (probably $50 total vs. several hundred, and if you ask they will probably substitute them for the standard 1/4") and easier to work with, while providing better braking.

If you want to use Stewart's finish, tell them up front so you get the right glue (expensive no matter what system you use, so don't pay twice to change it).

Big tires and dual-caliper brakes are easily added any time after you get it flying, so I would hold off on that unless you really want it now.

I really like the SS tab option for the tail wires, they are really easy to adjust, but not necessary. Also, while I will support the factory all day long, you can buy them from Lockwood aviation for less than half the cost.

This is just my opinion.

[Bay State Flatlander]

I kept it simple but felt the quick build wings set to fuselage option was worth the time saved for the expense, it was my only real splurge. Reading other posts regarding jigs helped me decide.
Other options purchased: the travel struts
pre- cut fabric plates
stainless cables
cabin heater.
The plates look good and I didn't have a bench or hand deburring tool at the time so again, it seemed a good trade off between time and money.
I hope to put the plane on floats at some point and Stainless cables just make sense
The travel struts would be straight forward to fabricate so they aren't a must.

One option that is worth considering is the crate, it was $800 but was well executed. I was not in a position to pick up the kit at the factory but would purchase it again if I did a factory pick-up. I do not think things would have been in as good a shape as they were when they arrived if I had loaded them up loose in a truck myself. You can tell JA has done this before, everything was well secured. I've used the leftover wood for making work benches and boards to organize components.

I didn't realize I should have informed JA that I would be using the Stewart System.

[danerazz]

I got the SS cables as well, hopefully will put it on floats sometime. With that being said, the nicopress sleeves supplied are zinc coated, and for SS cables TIN is the correct sleeve. Probably won't kill you, but not technically correct. Correct sleeves are here http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... sswage.php

Also, galvanized cable is actually slightly stronger as well, but the SS is adequate.

If you have a bandsaw and drill press, the fabric plates are a piece of cake. Even without the bandsaw, if you have a drill press they are not too bad. Note that wood bandsaws cut aluminum just fine, so a cheap bench top one will work. Also, a bench top drill press is more than enough and really handy.

I did pick up my kit myself in a Penske truck and drove it home to Maine, no crate. A screw holding the wings to the side of the truck worked through a bunch of padding and chaffed a ding in one of the spars. I ended up working with Troy to get a piece of spar tube that fit over the ding in a diamond shaped patch that was riveted/hysoled on. It was NOT the factory's fault, but Troy went out of his way to help me fix it to my AND his satisfaction. Had I splurged for the crate it would have prevented this.

I got the travel struts as well, but they are crazy simple to make.

Also the flap gap seals have rave reviews but are just aluminum strips riveted to the TE, search on here for gap seals and you will find the details.

I got the powder coating, and while it is not perfect, and there are arguments pro and con, I don't have adequate painting abilities. I believe the standard color is gray now, it was white when I got it. I would have preferred gray, but just for aesthetics; the white shows scuffs really well.

There are also a bunch of great tailwheel options (iron design, aero-christian, AK bushwheel, upgraded matco, etc.) so if you think you want something other than the standard matco, tell the factory and they will either substitute or delete the tailwheel.

[mhcrowder]

I didn't realize I should have informed JA that I would be using the Stewart System.

Do you know what changes they would have made in you had informed them?

I'm seriously thinking about using the Oratex system and wondering if they need to know that?

==
Michael

[FlyerChief]

By informing the factory that you are using Stewarts, you can ask them not to send the fabric glue that comes standard with the kit. I think it saves you about $50. I didn't originally plan on using Stewarts and started using the glue supplied, but after about 10 hrs. of working with a VOC mask on, decided to switch to Stewarts, which doesn't require wearing as much protective equipment.
I still had my container of glue and just traded it for some aluminum sheets with a friend, who was building a Pegazair.

So I guess the short answer is... it depends whether you can use the supplied glue on Oratex.
Dan

[kenryan]

With Oratex fabric you must use Oratex glue, so if you plan to go with Oratex tell the factory and they won't ship you any glue or fabric. Oratex glue is very user friendly and requires no special protective measures. They say that you can use it in your living room. Their website has a lot of good information: http://www.betteraircraftfabric.com/ Lars, the US distributor, is located here in Anchorage and I have found him to be very accessible.

[danerazz]

As far as other possible changes, there really isn't an absolute list. It appears if you have a idea for some tweaks, they generally can do it. Read this forum thoroughly and get some ideas. Clipping the rudder bottom is popular these days.