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Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 11:00 am
by AV8R Paul
Bruce
I also just checked 762AR is available as well
Paul

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 3:13 pm
by BucF16
Thanks Paul, I'll really consider those N Numbers.

I outdated my blogspot to day. Trying to get my feet wing as much done prior to my surgery.

Cheers Friends, Now get back in the shop and Keep Building.

Bruce

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 4:55 pm
by BucF16
I need to slow down my typing. "Updated ...Today" :oops:

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 5:22 pm
by TD1
Thanks for the heads up. I've been following your build.

Hope the surgery is successful, good luck with it...... get well soon.

Take care, Tom

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:26 am
by BucF16
I'm in week 3 of eight of recovery after surgery. Week 1 was on the couch, and computer ordering parts. But the last 2 weeks I've been working on the Highlander left wing. This morning I updated my blog spot.

Below are a few tool that make things easier.

Push pull De-burr tool and a Joggle tool

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:50 am
by Tralika
Nice tools. I made the joggle on my fabric plates by pressing them in a vice. It worked OK but the bend is nowhere near as crisp as yours. I looked for a blind deburing tool but the dealers wanted to charge me more for shipping than the tool cost. I ended up making one out of coat hanger wire. It worked on the few holes I had to deburr on the aluminum wing spars. I'm sure it wouldn't work on harder metal. Glad to hear your on the mend from your surgery.

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 5:52 pm
by danerazz
I found some inconsistent results with the deburring tool. Testing on a plate of aluminum showed a fine line between not deburred enough and enlarging the hole. The takeaway here is I found it difficult to evaluate how well the back side of the holes were deburred, and I didn’t want the holes larger than they were drilled.

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 4:53 pm
by sonex293
Here's how I've started using the two sided deburring tool. I found the tension on the little blade is adjustable using a small hex/allen wrench. I tightened up the blade a little. I debur the outside. Stop the drill, push the tool through and debur the inside, stop the drill and remove the tool. This prevents the hole from enlarging and And the added blade tension keeps you from accidentally pulling/pushing the tool through the hole while deburring.

==
Michael

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:12 am
by BucF16
Question for all who put on Strobe attachments. Did you use Hysol of another epoxy like West System? I have both. it seems me West System would sand better.

Thanks!
Bruce

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:46 am
by sonex293
We haven't attached our Strobe mounts yet, but our plan was to attach them with Hysol and make sure to remove all Hysol from the edges before it sets. Then come back with lightweight filler to create a nice smooth transition that is easy to sand.

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:52 am
by SheepdogRD
BucF16 wrote:Question for all who put on Strobe attachments. Did you use Hysol or another epoxy like West System?

I use Hysol to bond parts, but not to fill. I've tried Hysol with microspheres to fill, but lightweight body filler sands better and is lighter.

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:04 am
by gkremers
Simple to bond with micro. Position on the tip and drill small #40 holes, use Clecos to hold in place. Mix up some epoxy (West System) and mix in micro balloons until a toothpaste consistency. Make sure to rough up the mating surfaces of the wing tip and strobe mount. Spread the micro and hold in place with the cleco’s. Make sure to dip the cleco’s in a little grease so the release after the micro cures. The micro sands very easily. Once smooth add a couple layers of lightweight (3oz) glass and cover with peel ply (Dacron). After all drys sand lightly and finish with Superfil. Sounds like a lot but is really only a few hours of work.

Gary

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:56 am
by BucF16
Thank you ALL!!! :D

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 6:53 am
by BucF16
Gary, I knew I’d seem this this before. Here is the link for others:

viewtopic.php?f=218&t=23859&p=49145&hilit=Fiberglass#p49145

Re: Highlander 393

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 10:31 am
by Tralika
gkremers wrote:Simple to bond with micro. Position on the tip and drill small #40 holes, use Clecos to hold in place. Mix up some epoxy (West System) and mix in micro balloons until a toothpaste consistency. Make sure to rough up the mating surfaces of the wing tip and strobe mount. Spread the micro and hold in place with the cleco’s. Make sure to dip the cleco’s in a little grease so the release after the micro cures. The micro sands very easily. Once smooth add a couple layers of lightweight (3oz) glass and cover with peel ply (Dacron). After all drys sand lightly and finish with Superfil. Sounds like a lot but is really only a few hours of work.

Gary


Ditto.
I had trouble getting the top (short) side of the light base to lay flat even when clecoed. Putting a little weight (paint cans) on made them lay flat and dry with no gap.