Lift rings
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- Forum Regular
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Lift rings
I know there's a couple guys on floats. What do you guys use for lift rings and do you leave them on like most float planes?
Our spars are a good bit different then a cub or 180 so I wanted to see what's out there before I reinvent the wheel.
Our spars are a good bit different then a cub or 180 so I wanted to see what's out there before I reinvent the wheel.
- BucF16
- Veteran Member
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- Location: Alexandria, Ohio
Re: Lift rings
Try this thread, or search "Float are back on"
viewtopic.php?f=218&t=23926&p=49802&hil ... +on#p49802
viewtopic.php?f=218&t=23926&p=49802&hil ... +on#p49802
Bruce Johnson Highlander # 393
"Because I fly, I envy no man on Earth"
Builder web site:
http://www.bruceshighlander.blogspot.com
"Because I fly, I envy no man on Earth"
Builder web site:
http://www.bruceshighlander.blogspot.com
- gkremers
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- Location: Michigan
Re: Lift rings
I’ve tried 2 different methods, both worked fine. A friend of mine welded up a square (almost) spreader bar that picks of all 4 wing attach points. Remove the 2 wing attach bolts and front wing pins. Replace with long bolts that push in from the bottom up and attach the spreader cage. I use my Areo Lift to lift the plane. The nice thing with this method is the plane is level fore and aft and side to side. It does take a little while to get everything set up and you need a helped to hold the wing as you replace the wing bolts.
The second method is much easier. I made up some lifting straps that attach to the engine mount against the firewall. Again the Areo Lift makes quick work of lifting the plane. This method requires a tall tail stand because the lifting point is forward of the CG.
If you Lift by the wing attach points be sure to have some type of spreader frame.
Gary
I’ll get some pics this year when I put them back on, should be in 3 or 4 weeks.
The second method is much easier. I made up some lifting straps that attach to the engine mount against the firewall. Again the Areo Lift makes quick work of lifting the plane. This method requires a tall tail stand because the lifting point is forward of the CG.
If you Lift by the wing attach points be sure to have some type of spreader frame.
Gary
I’ll get some pics this year when I put them back on, should be in 3 or 4 weeks.
- FlyerChief
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- Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Lift rings
I use AN eye bolts because of their strength.
They are 5/16 diameter, 5" overall, 4" from the flange on the eye to the end of the thread. You could use some that were a little shorter... maybe 1/2" shorter, but I like the extra length so I can get the nut all the way onto the threads and still have room for washers. You'll have to figure out how to attach them to the spreader bar using hooks or whatever, but as Gary mentioned, a spreader bar is a must have or you'll bend the crap out of the bolts and maybe even damage the spar attach points without one!
Dan
And yes... I leave them in all summer because if I'm away and need to have any work done at a seaplane base somewhere, I know they will appreciate having the lift points still attached. Besides, you can't fold the wings when the plane is on amphib. floats or the plane will tip over backwards onto the back of the floats, so the bolts may as well stay in all season.
They are 5/16 diameter, 5" overall, 4" from the flange on the eye to the end of the thread. You could use some that were a little shorter... maybe 1/2" shorter, but I like the extra length so I can get the nut all the way onto the threads and still have room for washers. You'll have to figure out how to attach them to the spreader bar using hooks or whatever, but as Gary mentioned, a spreader bar is a must have or you'll bend the crap out of the bolts and maybe even damage the spar attach points without one!
Dan
And yes... I leave them in all summer because if I'm away and need to have any work done at a seaplane base somewhere, I know they will appreciate having the lift points still attached. Besides, you can't fold the wings when the plane is on amphib. floats or the plane will tip over backwards onto the back of the floats, so the bolts may as well stay in all season.
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When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it. ~Henry Ford
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Re: Lift rings
Thanks for the replies, so for the front attach points where it's normally just a slide pin, you're putting the eye bolts in there with nuts on the bottom? Washers to, and it there any danger of damaging the bottom spar where the nut is from the stress of that?
I assumed a spreader bar would be required.
You eye bolt is an AN45 I'm assuming?
I assumed a spreader bar would be required.
You eye bolt is an AN45 I'm assuming?
- FlyerChief
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Re: Lift rings
Correct... and not an issue because the vertical force is only on the spar attach points for an hour or two during the changeover and it's pretty much all static load. The chromoly steel doublers in the spar spread the forces out and the aluminum spar is undamaged. I have done a few changeovers now and there is no damage on mine. Since the front of the wing is close to the center of balance of the aircraft, it seems like a natural point to lift it with a spreader bar.
I suspend the tail with a cable or rope and set a small table under the tail wheel for security. I also tie the wings to a couple of cinder blocks from the tie down rings leaving enough slack to lift the fuselage into position, bit not so much that if the plane starts to tip it doesn't keep going. Another little hint is to either do the changeover with low fuel or shut off one wing so it doesn't cross flow if the plane leans too far in either direction... voice of experience on that one.
If you use the link shown above in the second post, you can see the cinder blocks and the table in the first photo.
I would have to locate the invoice to confirm it, but I believe it was an AN45-51.
Dan
I suspend the tail with a cable or rope and set a small table under the tail wheel for security. I also tie the wings to a couple of cinder blocks from the tie down rings leaving enough slack to lift the fuselage into position, bit not so much that if the plane starts to tip it doesn't keep going. Another little hint is to either do the changeover with low fuel or shut off one wing so it doesn't cross flow if the plane leans too far in either direction... voice of experience on that one.
If you use the link shown above in the second post, you can see the cinder blocks and the table in the first photo.
I would have to locate the invoice to confirm it, but I believe it was an AN45-51.
Dan
When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it. ~Henry Ford
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Re: Lift rings
When I was recently at the Just factory, I saw a SuperSTOL that had web straps attached to the front and rear spar tubes. At first I thought they were grab handles (like in a jeep) but I asked Buddy and was told they were lifting straps. The owner wants to be able to put it on floats and that is what they were for. Seemed like a really cool idea, they remain on the aircraft full time and are up and out of the way. I did not take any pics (kicking myself), but I'm sure Buddy or someone would be happy to do so? I also did not pay attention to how they work, being inside the skylight, don't know if you would have to remove it or not?
Just thought I'd pass it along...
Clark
Just thought I'd pass it along...
Clark
Building SuperSTOL Kit 512
Cave Creek, AZ
Cave Creek, AZ
- gkremers
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- Location: Michigan
Re: Lift rings
Thought I would post a pic of the spreader cage. My friend took measurements from my fuselage and built a perfect fitting 4 point spreader cage. The bolts install from the underside of the wing attach points with the large area washer.
I mentioned using the engine mount close to the firewall on the earlier post. I should have been specific about using the lower attach points. Pictures of that to follow in a couple of weeks.
Gary
I mentioned using the engine mount close to the firewall on the earlier post. I should have been specific about using the lower attach points. Pictures of that to follow in a couple of weeks.
Gary
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Re: Lift rings
I had this picture laying around that shows how I lift my Kitfox to change out floats.
I've done it a lot of different ways on a lot of different planes over the years, and found that I like to lift at the engine mount area rather than the wing spars. Plus, I don't need any type of overhead, tall lifting device. Proof of that is I'm doing it in my back yard. Oh, and even though it doesn't show in the picture, I have a elevated table under the tail to hold it up. The whole thing is much sturdier and stable than it probably looks. And because my engine crane folds up, it (along with the blocks and table) take up little space when not in use.
I've always thought I wanted to build a crane arm (like a derrick on a boat) with a winch that would attach to my trailer that I haul my plane with so it could be changed out right on trailer. Just haven't got around to doing that yet.
Paul
ps - the tail
I've done it a lot of different ways on a lot of different planes over the years, and found that I like to lift at the engine mount area rather than the wing spars. Plus, I don't need any type of overhead, tall lifting device. Proof of that is I'm doing it in my back yard. Oh, and even though it doesn't show in the picture, I have a elevated table under the tail to hold it up. The whole thing is much sturdier and stable than it probably looks. And because my engine crane folds up, it (along with the blocks and table) take up little space when not in use.
I've always thought I wanted to build a crane arm (like a derrick on a boat) with a winch that would attach to my trailer that I haul my plane with so it could be changed out right on trailer. Just haven't got around to doing that yet.
Paul
ps - the tail
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