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Wing Trailing Edge & Jury Struts

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:31 pm
by utpa001
I've got a couple more questions for those of you who are ahead of me in the build process.  I'm planning to cut the slots in the trailing edge for the flap and aileron brackets, and I'm wondering if there is an easy and accurate way to do it?  I've got a couple ideas, but none of them seem like the best way.

Also, how have you fit your jury struts?  I clamped mine on, and it just doesn't seem like they fit like the picture in the manual, or that they align very well with the clamps on the lift strut.  It seems like to line up with the bracket on the lift strut, they need to be mounted more forward on the spars, but that doesn't seem right (and besides, then they have to move out more than the 53" from the spar end to reach.  

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 12:05 am
by b1x4nqb

My jury struts fit fine from the start so  I cannot help much their without photos to see but I can tell the way I cut my trailing edge.  I temporarily located the trailing edge material where I wanted it permanently, drilled and cleco'd in place then used a black marker to trace the inside edge of the ribs onto the trailing edge.  This gave me the exact lines I needed.  Then using a dremel with the re-inforced cutter blades ($20 for the pack from lowes) I was able to zip down the line about two blades wide.  It wasn't super fast but mayb a minute or two per rib.  The original blades (wheels) that come with the dremel broke before I finished one slot.  The fiberglass re-inforced ones got me through several slots if not all on one side and even then they only wore down instead of breaking.  You can trial fit the hinges that way and adjust with more cutting to get a really nice fit.  That worked well for me.  Actually that dremel has paid for itself on this project as I use it on almost everything.  Wonder if it will paint??  Good luck!

It has been too cold to work these last few weeks.  I'm looking forward to getting out tomorrow and finishing off these wings before the month ends.  It is supposed to get into the 40's.  Yea ha, that is really nice to look forward to.  I know, someone will say that is like Florida weather to them!  Ok, Ok....


PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 8:52 pm
by utpa001
That's a great idea for the trailing edge, kind of makes me wish I hadn't permenantly mounted them already:?  Oh well, I guess I'll figure something out.

I hear you on the shop temps, it should only get better for you the next week.  We're supposed to be about 50 in Wisconsin Monday, I can only imagine that should make it to PA in a day or two.



PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:41 am
Ha tim  troy said he used a roto or zip type cutting tool with the 1/8 ''bit the bits are like the drywall ones and the very end of the bit does not have a cutting surface it is just a guide so what you do is drill a hole with a 12'' long 1/8 bit from the inside flush with the rib then use the zip tool or roto tool from the outside and use the side of the rib for a guide.     another way is drill the holes from the inside then on the outside go top to bottom with masking tape then use air dremel with 3''x 1/8 cutting wheel and just join the two holes top to bottom also very fast that's what i did    ''' altawingman'''

Trailing edge

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:16 am
by b1x4nqb
Yea, I remember Troy telling me the same thing about using the rib as a guide.  Thats a real good idea and I wouldn't hesitate using that method.  The one caution Troy gave me is to be SURE that your tip doesn't begin cutting into the rib as your making your cut and using the rib as a guide.  You don't want to take anything away from the rib, only use it as a guide.  It isn't an exact science, wherever you have more taken from the trailing edge, a little epoxy seems to fill right in.


PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 2:31 pm

trailing edge experience

PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 3:49 pm
by KevinC
I just finished installing the wing trailing edge and used the position-cleco-mark & cut method for the hinge slats (only because I couldn't find a dremel bit w/o flutes to the end as Troy recommended).  Wow, that worked great.  I used a 'skinny wheel' on a die grinder.  I took pictures of each step, and I'll post them on the expercraft builder log site when I get an opportunity.

On to the control surface leading edges.....