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stainless cables through out

PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 2:25 pm
by Dave Krall CFII SEL SES
We want to replace the standard 3/32 galvanized cables with stainless throughout the aircraft including flying wires. Any special considerations? Thanks in advance. Dave

PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 6:31 pm
by alan
Make sure you use the nicopress fittings that are intended for use with stainless cable. I sure wish I had done that when building.

Alan

Stainless cables and nicopress fittings

PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2007 8:04 pm
by b1x4nqb
Alan,

I am in the process of redoing all my cabling because I don't want to take the chance of rust down the road.  I re-order all from LEAF and am wondering if the nicopresses are for stainless.  How do you tell?  Color, shape, or size, etc.  

Thanks,
Paul

rust?

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 7:53 am
by scubarider
I have owned an ultralight with exposed cables for over 5 years.  They have not rusted.  I have also looked at Troy's plane {the purple/yellow escapade} and see no rust.  Where are you guys getting your information about rusting cables?  Is it the way we are securing them with heat shrink at the cable ends and water is standing?  
Dennis

Re: rust?

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 4:19 pm
by Dave Krall CFII SEL SES
scubarider wrote:I have owned an ultralight with exposed cables for over 5 years.  They have not rusted.  I have also looked at Troy's plane {the purple/yellow escapade} and see no rust.  Where are you guys getting your information about rusting cables?  Is it the way we are securing them with heat shrink at the cable ends and water is standing?  
Dennis


They're probably not spraying everything down good enough with the saltwater to get the rust...

See Alan's post from January 2007

PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 5:40 am
by b1x4nqb
Here is a copy of his first hand information.



Howdy, Y'all.

I've had N1010Z back in my shop for a couple of weeks to install the interior and do a few updates and fix some nits. Along the way I discovered a couple of problems everyone should be aware of.

Corrosion.

Along the leading edges of the wing struts, jury strut attach fittings, and a couple places around the back of the cockpit structure the powder coating is showing rust. It buffs off, with paint compound, fairly easily, but it ain't supposed to rust at all. My kit is less than 1-1/2 years old and has only been flying for a little less than 6 months with about 100 hours of flight time. The powder coating was thin is several out of the way places. I fixed those during construction. What I didn't expect was the stuff to be so thin all over that rust would rear it's ugly head through what appeared to be a good solid coat. It's a good thing I don't have floats and will get it wet every time I fly.

Corrosion part II.

The flying wires on the empenage are apparently galvanized, not stainless. They seem to be OK, just turning grey, but the thimbles are also plated and the plating is all gone. Completely. The thimbles are coated thinly with rust. The thin powder coat is, so far, just an annoyance, but the rusting hardware is a serious safety hazard. I ordered, from Wicks (don't get me started on Aircraft Spruce), stainless cable and thimbles and remade all the flying wire assemblies. (Thank you very much DaveU for your tips on making up the flying wires. My first attempt was less than satisfactory and I was going to replace them even without the rust.) While I was doing it, I also wanted to incorporate some nifty tangs an aquaintence of mine, Ed with a Kolb Ultrastar, has on his airplane. He got them from Leading Edge Airfoils. The are also stainless (the catalog discription doesn't mention the material) and have four staggered attachment holes on one end so that you can adjust the wire tightness on each end of the wire by about 1/8" four times per end. Even with DaveU's tips I needed that to get the horizontal stabilizer perfectly level and straight.

The control wire assemblies are also corroding, but have less exposure to the dirty air around Houston, so are only partially covered with rust. I will have to replace all of them in the next couple of years. I realize that any kit company must make money, and this is the first time I have not been satisfied with what I have recieved from Just Aircraft, BUT.....I recommend all you guys (any gals out there?) buying stainless wire and fittings and doing that part out of your own pocket rather than having to replace it soon after first flight.

I'll take some pictures of the interior and old/new wires when I'm finished and post them here.

Happy building and flying.

Alan

_________________
If I had known I would live this long I would have taken better care of myself.

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 4:21 pm
by alan
In the Wicks catalog they specify which fittings are for stainless and which are for galvenized. Also, I got the more flexible cables, even though they are less resistant to abrasion.

Alan

saltwater

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 8:20 pm
by scubarider
Saltwater, good one Dave.  Can I get that at Aircraft Spruce?  Does it come in gallons?  Do you have to get a particular sprayer?  Ok, I will stop...   :lol:
Dennis

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:49 pm
by pdeinin
I've tried both the highly flexible and the medium flexible stainless wire.  I find the medium flexible much easier to work with.  It cuts beautifully and goes into the nico sleeves effortlessly.  I think it might be less prone to stretching, so I have used it for operating the rudder and for the supports on the horizontal stabilizer.  I'm using the highly flexible stuff in the wings to make the turns on the pulleys.