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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 10:48 pm
by Dave Krall CFII SEL SES
stede52 wrote:
I don't know about the susuki but the 912 system only puts out a maximum output of approximately 18 amps without an external alternator and it recommends you limit your total electrical load, with all accessories, to less than 80 percent of that, or 14 amps.



This alternator is either 40 or 60 amps, which is nice to have. I'll remember the 80% of total load too, thanks.

It's 40 amps but engine guys say use 60 amp breaker for surge protection.
I'm still looking at Vans RV exhaust shrouds and/or making a custom one to get some real heat.

Decided on this heater

PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:20 am
by scubarider
Went to Barnstormers and found the heater that I am going to put in the plane.  Here are the pics:

barnstormer heater

PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:27 am
by KevinC
Dennis,

I saw that one, too.  It looks good, but again, the 3.5 amp draw is pretty high.  Still wonder why you couldn't run ram air through it.

k

true

PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 11:26 am
by scubarider
True, but how long would you have it actually running if it puts out the heat it says it does.  I figure turn it on for a few minutes then off.  Not sure.  I will probably mount it behind the instrument panel up on the tubes.  Not enough room on the firewall.  Run the air vents right to the ole feet.   :lol:
Dennis

Heat muffs for Sorenson Exhaust

PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:34 pm
by stede52
Just FYI, I purchased the Sorenson Exhaust for my Highlander and if you want cabin or carb heat shrounds for it, contact Aircraft Exhaust at 800-770-7287 (www.aircraftexhaust.net).  You can also see the shrouds on their website.  Cabin heat shrouds = $85, Carb heat shrouds = $75.  Aircraft Exhaust builds the Sorenson exhaust systems.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:17 pm
by b1x4nqb
Stede52,

Thanks for that info.  I e-mailed them several weeks ago but got no response.  I'm wondering why you would want a carb heat shroud if you can just plac a filter on the carb and already receive heated air from the cowling?  Do you think this is warm enough?  I'm planning to mount the airbox and need to use maybe a naca scoop to feed it on the one side(not sure how to filter it yet), then I'm just going to go the cowling side for warmer air.  Also, I'll just use the cabin heat shroud on the exhaust to warm my feet with a cabin heat box to shut it on/off.  

Paul

PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 12:13 am
by stede52
Paul,
I too am using the airbox on mine and will be installing both a carb and cabin shroud from Aircraft Exhaust. I"m using a carb shroud because I want the absolute hotest air in the event of carb ice and the shroud from Aircraft Exhaust will give me 110 degrees which is much hotter then cowl air especially in ice conditions.  Also, you will only need a use one naca duct for the cabin heat side, the carb heat side doesn't require a naca duct and therefore not requiring the air to be filtered if you use the Aircraft exhaust  carb shroud.  Call Aircraft Exhaust and talk to Rich Lopez and he can explain why.

By the way have you fitted your cowl with the exhaust and airbox installed on the engine? if not,  do you know the standard motor mount will not accommodate the airbox config without extending the motor mount away from the firewall about 1.5".

PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 9:45 am
by b1x4nqb
Yes, I looked at three alternatives.  1) mount a machined spacer behind the engine mount @ the firewall  2) build my own engine block mounts (aluminum angles that mount the engine to the steel mount (easiest way in my opinion) and 3) replace the mount with another from Troy already extended out.  The more difficult thing is that I don't have enough cowling left behind the scribe line to make it fit properly so I'm contemplating having troy have one made with more material and a naca scoop molded in at the same time.  Then I can either send mine back and switch them or I may be able to take a road trip down to them and switch out my motor mounts at the same time.  13hrs each way is a long trip for me by myself, not sure I want to make that again for this purpose.  Wish it were closer to sun-n-fun or something to make it worth the run.

Also, relooking at your post I'm wondering if I need a naca scoop at all.  Talking with Dave Udder, he said he is just feeding raw air in from under the cowl and it is plenty hot & forceful.  I'll have to think that one through more.

PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 12:47 pm
by b1x4nqb
I just hung up with Jason from AircraftExhaust and he said they don't actually filter the carb air because it has to bleed into the shroud through small holes and it all comes from within the cowling.  I'm not sure if I like the idea of using unfiltered air when you have the need for carb heat.  On the flip side, he said they custom build the shrouds to the customer needs.  No exact dimensions exist yet so he couldn't give me a model #, etc.  He said to measure where I need the out ports (45, 60, 90 degree angles, etc.) and allow for 3" of exterior clearance.  Call them and they will custom design one.  He said Mark Corenson should have these measurements already.  One thing I learned was that the cabin heat shroud actually circulates the cabin air back to the shroud for reheating.  I thought it was just a one way feed into the cockpit due to so much lost heat from all the cracks, holes, gaps, etc.  He said I'll need to purchase a seperate cabin heat box from Spruce to shut on/off the heated air.  Although their website says "Our heat box" it is a spruce item and they don't sell them.

Paul

PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 12:59 pm
by stede52
Paul, you confirmed everything that Rich also told me. thanks

Steve