Exhaust
- scubarider2
- Topic Moderator
- Posts: 1086
- Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:03 pm
- Location: Cleveland, GA
looks good
Steve, looks great. Question. Your motor mount powder coated?
Dennis
Dennis
- stede52
- Premium Member
- Posts: 1066
- Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:40 am
- Location: Carnation, WA
-
- Veteran Member
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:53 am
- Location: Orwigsburg, PA
Steve,
Looks great! Did they give you a part # when you ordered both pieces? When I called them, they said they didn't have a standard one but would need to build custom to fit. I told them they built the exhaust for Mark but they still didn't know. I was thinking of going the engine coolant heater way but seeing your muffs, I'm thinking I could probably get them all for less that the other. What type of shuttle box are you using for the cabin heat?
Paul
P.S. -Did your exhaust tips fit into the cylinders exhaust ports smoothly or were they really tight that you had to force them in. Mine don't seem to fit and I havn't tried to force them yet.
Looks great! Did they give you a part # when you ordered both pieces? When I called them, they said they didn't have a standard one but would need to build custom to fit. I told them they built the exhaust for Mark but they still didn't know. I was thinking of going the engine coolant heater way but seeing your muffs, I'm thinking I could probably get them all for less that the other. What type of shuttle box are you using for the cabin heat?
Paul
P.S. -Did your exhaust tips fit into the cylinders exhaust ports smoothly or were they really tight that you had to force them in. Mine don't seem to fit and I havn't tried to force them yet.
- Wes
- Premium Member
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:32 pm
- Location: Satellite Bch, Florida
Engine Install
Steve,
Your engine install is looking really good. I ended up with the 4in1 exhaust also, but mine is still in the box----.
I'm curious about the piece of alum' trim along the bottom of the firewall? What does it do?
Thanks,
Wes
Kit # 95
Your engine install is looking really good. I ended up with the 4in1 exhaust also, but mine is still in the box----.
I'm curious about the piece of alum' trim along the bottom of the firewall? What does it do?
Thanks,
Wes
Kit # 95
Kit # 95
Low and Slow - The only way to go!
Low and Slow - The only way to go!
- stede52
- Premium Member
- Posts: 1066
- Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:40 am
- Location: Carnation, WA
Paul,
there is no part number for the units. Becasuse of the critical measurements and angles I needed in order for the cabin heat muff to fit that position, I built a mockup from 3" plastic tubing and put the 2"inlet & outlet exactly were I wanted them and sent it to Aircraft Exhaust to duplicate it. For the carb air muff I only had to tell them the length I needed.
As far as the fit into the cylinders they were all pretty tight. I was able to put three of them in by carefully rocking them back and forth and once I knew they were in straight I used the bolts to pull them in. The forth exhaust needed a little taping with a plastic hammer. To get them I out I reverse the process. I also used a little emery cloth on the cylinder end of the pipes to make sure there were no burrs anywhere.
Wes,
The aluminum fabric plate on the bottom of the firewall pulls the fabric away from the floor board allowing more room for wiring, tubing, etc. It also allowed me to bring the fuel line and battery cables directly out the front of the firewall via that fabric plate without coming up behind the rudder pedals and then thru the firewall.
Steve
there is no part number for the units. Becasuse of the critical measurements and angles I needed in order for the cabin heat muff to fit that position, I built a mockup from 3" plastic tubing and put the 2"inlet & outlet exactly were I wanted them and sent it to Aircraft Exhaust to duplicate it. For the carb air muff I only had to tell them the length I needed.
As far as the fit into the cylinders they were all pretty tight. I was able to put three of them in by carefully rocking them back and forth and once I knew they were in straight I used the bolts to pull them in. The forth exhaust needed a little taping with a plastic hammer. To get them I out I reverse the process. I also used a little emery cloth on the cylinder end of the pipes to make sure there were no burrs anywhere.
Wes,
The aluminum fabric plate on the bottom of the firewall pulls the fabric away from the floor board allowing more room for wiring, tubing, etc. It also allowed me to bring the fuel line and battery cables directly out the front of the firewall via that fabric plate without coming up behind the rudder pedals and then thru the firewall.
Steve
-
- Veteran Member
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:53 am
- Location: Orwigsburg, PA
Coolant heater Q?
Dennis,
Hows that new heater working for you? Are you happy with it? Downsides?
Thanks,
Paul, PA
Hows that new heater working for you? Are you happy with it? Downsides?
Thanks,
Paul, PA
Last edited by b1x4nqb on Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
- KevinC
- Veteran Member
- Posts: 447
- Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:42 am
- Location: Prosser, Washington
not me!
I decided to go the same way Steve is - if you are asking Kevin in WA. The coolant based heater was just too much current draw and weight. I think Dennis got one?
Steve - since I am shamelssly copying you on several other things, do you think I could have Aircraft Exhaust "send me the same thing you sold to Steve"?
k
Steve - since I am shamelssly copying you on several other things, do you think I could have Aircraft Exhaust "send me the same thing you sold to Steve"?
k
- scubarider2
- Topic Moderator
- Posts: 1086
- Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:03 pm
- Location: Cleveland, GA
heater
The heater that I installed is working perfectly {knocking on wood}. It does not draw enough amps to worry about. The heat is fantastic with no smell, strong air flow, no leaks and is totally hidden from view. I would recommend it to anyone. It was well worth the headache of putting it in.
Dennis
Dennis
-
- Veteran Member
- Posts: 103
- Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 8:21 am
- Location: Cincinnati
Interesting about the extended motor mount for the air box. When I talked to Tim before he left he said the JA didn't use the airbox but I have read to get the rated power out of the 912 you have to use one. Sounds like I need to make a phone call to Troy!stede52 wrote:Dennis,
Not yet, I bought the first extentd motor mount for the 912 airbox and it would have been another two weeks to get JA to powder coat it so I had them just send me the mount as is. I'll be getting it powder coated here locally.
Steve
Rick Mullins #144
Cincinnati
Cincinnati
- stede52
- Premium Member
- Posts: 1066
- Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:40 am
- Location: Carnation, WA
Rick,
The cowl is the other factor that is affected by the airbox and extended motor mount. If you intend to use an airbox and you trimmed your existing cowl to the scribe lines marked on the cowling for the 912, it will be too short, JA didn't take into account the extension required to fit an airbox because THEY didn't use it. I ended up sending back my old cowl and got a new extended one. I worked with both Troy and his fiberglass guy and now the molds for the 912 cowling have been extended about 3 inches of which the airbox will use up about 1.5-2" of it. People have used their original cowling but in order to have enough length they didn't do any trimming on the back side of the cowl. The boot cowl also needs to be set as far forward as possible when using the original cowling. I received the first of the new extended cowls and it worked great.
Steve
The cowl is the other factor that is affected by the airbox and extended motor mount. If you intend to use an airbox and you trimmed your existing cowl to the scribe lines marked on the cowling for the 912, it will be too short, JA didn't take into account the extension required to fit an airbox because THEY didn't use it. I ended up sending back my old cowl and got a new extended one. I worked with both Troy and his fiberglass guy and now the molds for the 912 cowling have been extended about 3 inches of which the airbox will use up about 1.5-2" of it. People have used their original cowling but in order to have enough length they didn't do any trimming on the back side of the cowl. The boot cowl also needs to be set as far forward as possible when using the original cowling. I received the first of the new extended cowls and it worked great.
Steve
-
- Veteran Member
- Posts: 282
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:53 am
- Location: Orwigsburg, PA
Steve,
A few questions since your going the airbox route:
Were you able to fit in your oil tank behind the airbox or did you have to mount it somewere else?
Did you ever find your patterns for your exhaust?
Did you replace the bolts that came with engine that go into the bottom of the engine from the l-brackets with longer versions or use the existing ones?
Finally, how are you routing your cool air into the airbox? With a ram tube in the existing cooling hole or did you cut in a new hole into the cowl?
Thanks,
Paul, PA
A few questions since your going the airbox route:
Were you able to fit in your oil tank behind the airbox or did you have to mount it somewere else?
Did you ever find your patterns for your exhaust?
Did you replace the bolts that came with engine that go into the bottom of the engine from the l-brackets with longer versions or use the existing ones?
Finally, how are you routing your cool air into the airbox? With a ram tube in the existing cooling hole or did you cut in a new hole into the cowl?
Thanks,
Paul, PA