False rib tape termination

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Dave Krall CFII SEL SES
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Post by Dave Krall CFII SEL SES »

(2 threads going on this subject)

The attachment of upper wing fabric to the false ribs was just discussed with the waterborne paint people and they told us to put the main fabric sheet over the wing, shrink it, then hot glue a tape on TOP of the wing fabric along the false rib so that the glue penetrates and adheres to the false rib's edge. Anybody else do it this way?
Last edited by Dave Krall CFII SEL SES on Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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scubarider2
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Post by scubarider2 »

I used the superflite system.  I put tape adhesive over the top of the false rib.  Then laid the main fabric over that.  I then used the glue on top of the tape and fabric.  I then shrunk the tape almost the whole way with a small iron.  Then I added more glue and put the fabric tape on top of that.  Shrunk it completely and it looks and feels very secure.  Have had no problems with 80+ hours!  
:D
Dennis
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Dave Krall CFII SEL SES
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Post by Dave Krall CFII SEL SES »

scubarider2 wrote:I used the superflite system.  I put tape adhesive over the top of the false rib.  Then laid the main fabric over that.  I then used the glue on top of the tape and fabric.  I then shrunk the tape almost the whole way with a small iron.  Then I added more glue and put the fabric tape on top of that.  Shrunk it completely and it looks and feels very secure.  Have had no problems with 80+ hours!  
:D
Dennis
I know a bunch of guys are going to various amounts of effort to tape or otherwise alter the false ribs and they all look good.

What perplexes me is why the professional fabric/paint guy just told us not to do those things, because he likes the fabric glued right to the false ribs. Inquiring minds want to know!
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scubarider2
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Post by scubarider2 »

I would think that it might have to do with the structural strength in the sidewards movement of the false ribs.  I can see the point there.  But, after tightening down the fabric I did not see one rib move to either side.  All mine laid perfectly in line.  
Dennis
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stede52
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Post by stede52 »

Dave,
That just doesn't make sense are you sure they said to use hot glue becasuse their video and manual say nothing about using hot glue when skinning wood ribs.  Could you have possibly misunderstood what they said?

Steve
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alan
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Post by alan »

I've used the Stits/Poly Fiber system several times now.

Poly Tac (the clear glue) is only used to attach the fabric to the structure. I mix 1/2 & 1/2 Poly Tac and Poly Brush (the pink stuff) to do this. Never put Poly Tac on the top of any fabric surface.

All tapes and reinforcement layers are attached using Poly Brush ONLY. You can put a tape under the fabric on any area that looks like it might chafe. Sand smooth first and make sure the tape is properly attached and dry first.

Of course, the above doesn't apply if you are using any other system, but.....hot glue? On fabric?

Alan
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Dave Krall CFII SEL SES
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Post by Dave Krall CFII SEL SES »

alan wrote:I've used the Stits/Poly Fiber system several times now.

Poly Tac (the clear glue) is only used to attach the fabric to the structure. I mix 1/2 & 1/2 Poly Tac and Poly Brush (the pink stuff) to do this. Never put Poly Tac on the top of any fabric surface.

All tapes and reinforcement layers are attached using Poly Brush ONLY. You can put a tape under the fabric on any area that looks like it might chafe. Sand smooth first and make sure the tape is properly attached and dry first.

Of course, the above doesn't apply if you are using any other system, but.....hot glue? On fabric?

Alan
Steve, my helper & I both talked with the pros with the WATERBORNE system and confirmed. I'm wondering if Stits system would be different regarding false ribs. The waterborne guys said you could use tape virtually anywhere one wished but that it was not needed on the false ribs and they had never seen a plane done with tape on the ribs.

So, we're doing ours without tape, hot gluing to the rib and hot taping over the top of the wing skin over the rib with 1" tape. We filleted the small aft end of the false ribs with peanut butter consistency epoxy/filler and some in the front and they are solid. Rounded off the upper edges with sand paper and sealed with spar varnish before covering & gluing.

Alan, yes we use a hot glue iron on the fabric with the WATERBORNE system mentioned above, it works great to dry the glue. The trick is to not have the iron so hot that it excessively shrinks fabric.
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KevinC
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clarification

Post by KevinC »

I'll try to be a translator here - if I am correct in my observation of the thread.

With the Stewart System glue you apply the glue to whatever you want the fabric to stick to, place the fabric, then quickly pass a 250 deg finishing iron over it to re-activate the glue.  The fabric sticks in place - much like when you put the poly tack on the frame, then brush a little MEK over to get the fabric to adhere.  It is a really great system and I love working with their glue (different thoughts on the paint.... but that is another subject....).

FWIW - I did not glue my fabric to the false ribs; I did put on the anti-chafe tape; and I did put a 1" tape over the top.  I used the stock false ribs.

K
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stede52
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Post by stede52 »

Kevin,
now that makes sense :)
Steve
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