Aileron/Flap Cables

[BucF16]

SheepDog, I printed out your templets, (as I had the same problem as the Sonex293 boys had). All your templates were exactly the same size after I cut them. When I laid them against my unused false rid (the one behind the tank) it fit perfectly in the spar curvature, but are about an 1/8th in. from the cap strips (just outside the glue line), and 3/16s from the trailing edge. They actually fit very well just inside the glue line. Does this sound like they are accurate? Or should they fit snuggly against the capstrips. It could be my % on the pdf, it stated 131%??? But still they fit the spar....

Also

With the amount of Hysol the the factory uses at the spar junction, I think it will be difficult to lay the templet out. It appears that one of the holes will go thru the Hysol. So, any thoughts?

You have been very helpful!

Thanks you,
Bruce

[SheepdogRD]

SheepDog, I printed out your templets, (as I had the same problem as the Sonex293 boys had). All your templates were exactly the same size after I cut them. When I laid them against my unused false rid (the one behind the tank) it fit perfectly in the spar curvature, but are about an 1/8th in. from the cap strips (just outside the glue line), and 3/16s from the trailing edge. They actually fit very well just inside the glue line. Does this sound like they are accurate?

Yes, that sounds right. I left enough play in there to lay the templates in without curling the edges. They should be placed close up against the spar tubes.

With the amount of Hysol the the factory uses at the spar junction, I think it will be difficult to lay the templet out. It appears that one of the holes will go thru the Hysol. So, any thoughts?

I lined the templates up with the spar, lay the aft tip on the rib, pushed the template against the rib, and just let the template curl on the epoxy. I was most concerned about the hole center positions. I did have to drill into the epoxy, but there's more epoxy added when we glue in the tubes, so I figured it wasn't likely to reduce the strength of the joint.

I went back and checked the template with our #1 rib, and it matches the template if the template is held up to the spar. I can't check the others because our wings are covered. I'll be in a hangar with a finished Highlander later this week, and I'll check the templates against it.

[SheepdogRD]

Barkley Smith measured the cable positions on the Highlander he's repairing, and confirmed that they match the templates.

I also checked the templates against the pulley positions on mine, and that measurement confirms them, too.

[BucF16]

WOW!! Thank you very much. This forum is fantastic. I have another Question for you all. This should be easy. My lift strut attach brackets must be larger than those in the past. Mine are not powder coated but anodized. Having "Just" supply every quick build option, I had them make the fabric backing plates. Below is a picture of my problem. Should I grind a notch or open both sides to accept the bracket?

The front has the same issue.

Bruce

[FlyerChief]

Hi Bruce,
It appears the new bracket may be a touch longer, but your problem should be solved by cutting the fabric backing plate. Don't grind the bracket as it could weaken the structure a bit. The fabric backing plate is only for gluing the fabric to, so cutting the opening slightly larger will not affect structural integrity.
Here are a couple of pictures of mine... You can see that I filed a couple of roundish notches to allow the plate to fit the bracket.

Fabric Backing Plate

I hope that helps,
Dan

[BucF16]

Dan Thank you! Very much
Cheers,
Bruce

[SheepdogRD]

I did the fabric plates like Dan did... I nibbled away at 'em until they fit. They're non-structural, so the important things here are (1) to make a solid place to glue the fabric and (2) to make sure the plates are installed so they line up with the structures the fabric will connect with -- the adjacent ribs and the trailing edge.

These brackets on the front spars are likely the ugliest places on the plane... humps in the middle of straight spars. You want to add just enough filler to give the fabric a smooth surface to transition across.