widow latch?

[xpflyr]

Of course you need that piece on the outside for the door to open, but why should you put it in for the window to open on the OUTSIDE?
I see by some others they did put the opener latch on the inside and outside. Now I know you're not going to keep someone from breaking in if they really want to but why make it so easy with the window latch on the outside?
Do I make an sense?
Help?
Thanks, Don.

[danerazz]

Not at that point yet, but if you re-designed the door latch to something more substantial and openable fom the inside only, then you could require an exterior window latch.

[xpflyr]

Not at that point yet, but if you re-designed the door latch to something more substantial and openable fom the inside only, then you could require an exterior window latch.

Thanks and I knew I should have been a little clearer.
This is for the window latch.
The door latch is the same and I have no problem with that.
This is just what builders have done for the window closing latch. I see some have used the same latch as the door. Then you would be able to open the window from the outside if no lock was made for the window. I guess I can just put a washer on the stub that sticks out and pin that but wanted a little nicer looking finish to it.

[stede52]

I've never seen the need to put the latch on the outside of the window. I replaced the outside window handle with a 1/4" axle collar.

[xpflyr]

I've never seen the need to put the latch on the outside of the window. I replaced the outside window handle with a 1/4" axle collar.

Thanks Steve. I thought it would be something like that, just wasn't sure,,,,,
as usual.

[taildrgfun]

I don't put the outside window handle on either.

[danerazz]

More importantly, how did you get that nice radius on the strike plate on the door frame? (Sorry, I can't remember whose plane that is)

[mhcrowder]

Dane,

Were you ever able to replicate the strike plates? We're currently in the process of trying to make these and wondering what you did.

==
Michael

[Tralika]

The strike plates were pretty easy to make. I bought a 6"x6" sheet of stainless steel from McMaster-Carr for a few bucks, I think it .024" thickness. I cut it down to two pieces about 3"x4". Then I clamped each piece under some 1/2" round steel stock (Home Depot) on the edge of my work bench and just bent the SS up and around the round stock. I repositioned it several times until it was bent into a round shape. I might have used a rubber mallet to get it to go all the way around the round stock. I came out a little smaller than the airframe tubing so they sort of snap into place. I attached them with some adhesive. I see the plates riveted in place in one of the previous posts. I wouldn't recommend drilling holes in the airframe tubing. Your just asking for moisture to get inside and start some unseen corrosion. As you can see in the photo the 4" length is plenty long. If I was doing it over I'd go 3"X3" Don't forget to round off the corners before you start bending. Good luck

http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.p ... 7731&row=2

[SheepdogRD]

Tralika's post is also on the forum here in Shawn Taplin's thread: https://www.wingsforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=54640#p54640.

You'll find more tips further down that thread.

[Johnny C!]

I didn't add the exterior handles for
my windows either, but I find that
I need to open my windows from the
outside, from time to time, and I have
wishing lately, that I had added them.
If I run across them in my parts bins, I
will probably install them.