electric trim tab actuator
- danerazz
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- stede52
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
yes we are, aren't we
Dave, I guess my point is, how do you know what we have with our "Limited Experience" is not strong enough for amphib Highlanders, like I said, so far no failures in your senarios. So do we really need to over think/engineer something that works? I'd rather be flying and I am I believe there are hundreds highlander amphib hours out there to prove the case, call the factory and find where those planes are and get some data from experienced pilots!
Dave, I guess my point is, how do you know what we have with our "Limited Experience" is not strong enough for amphib Highlanders, like I said, so far no failures in your senarios. So do we really need to over think/engineer something that works? I'd rather be flying and I am I believe there are hundreds highlander amphib hours out there to prove the case, call the factory and find where those planes are and get some data from experienced pilots!
Steve D N419LD
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
All the other Highlanders I've seen have traditional floats, either metal or composite and with deep vee hulls so they don't get the same magnitude of water pounding.
The inflatable Full Lotus float design that excells in rough water, is a cathedral-bowed configuration transitioning into a very shallow vee. Their shallow draft benefits inherently place the empenage about one foot lower and closer to the water than typical traditional deep vee floats on planes of similar displacement.
That's why just as the plane is being pushed over and up onto the hump at MAX power to get on the step, and already at high surface speed, the tail is still getting a huge pounding of water globs being accelerated by the slipstream. More and longer than other configurations. The speed might not always be 100 knot water globs, it could 110 or 120+ under certain conditions.
The video from a water proof hero camera shows it nicely.
The inflatable Full Lotus float design that excells in rough water, is a cathedral-bowed configuration transitioning into a very shallow vee. Their shallow draft benefits inherently place the empenage about one foot lower and closer to the water than typical traditional deep vee floats on planes of similar displacement.
That's why just as the plane is being pushed over and up onto the hump at MAX power to get on the step, and already at high surface speed, the tail is still getting a huge pounding of water globs being accelerated by the slipstream. More and longer than other configurations. The speed might not always be 100 knot water globs, it could 110 or 120+ under certain conditions.
The video from a water proof hero camera shows it nicely.
- SheepdogRD
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
I’ve read through the comments here and in a related thread at http://www.wingsforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=218&t=22630, and I hope I’ve found one solution to the servo attachment problem.
We’re using the Ray Allen T3-12A servo, and I bought the standard 8-32 threaded rod and clevises to use with it. Because the clevis doesn’t fit the existing hole in the trim tab bellcrank, I thought I’d replace the clevis with a Heim-type rod end. The bad news: I couldn't find any 8-32 rod ends that I'd trust. Although there are some available for RC models, I couldn't find information on the standards to which they're built.
The good news: there are quality 10-32 rod ends available, and Ray Allen has a 10-32 clevis and threaded rod available as part RC-10. Here’s the link: http://www.rayallencompany.com/products ... ories.html, and here’s the link to the T3-12A servo: http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/servos.html. These parts are also available from Aircraft Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... ckkey=7076 and http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/el ... key=395280. Aircraft Spruce’s listed prices are higher, but they’ll match the lower Ray Allen prices if you call them.
If we add a stainless steel 10-32 rod end like McMaster 59915K481 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#59915K481) similar to the one pictured above, we have a simple linkage that uses the existing bellcrank hole with no fabrication required. I plan to use an AN6 bolt, washers and castle nut with it.
Since I’ve already bought the 8-32 clevises and rod, this will cost us extra. If you haven’t ordered yet, there’s very little difference in cost using the RC-10 and rod end.
One thing to note: the Ray Allen position sensor is not compatible with the 10-32 shaft.
We’re using the Ray Allen T3-12A servo, and I bought the standard 8-32 threaded rod and clevises to use with it. Because the clevis doesn’t fit the existing hole in the trim tab bellcrank, I thought I’d replace the clevis with a Heim-type rod end. The bad news: I couldn't find any 8-32 rod ends that I'd trust. Although there are some available for RC models, I couldn't find information on the standards to which they're built.
The good news: there are quality 10-32 rod ends available, and Ray Allen has a 10-32 clevis and threaded rod available as part RC-10. Here’s the link: http://www.rayallencompany.com/products ... ories.html, and here’s the link to the T3-12A servo: http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/servos.html. These parts are also available from Aircraft Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... ckkey=7076 and http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/el ... key=395280. Aircraft Spruce’s listed prices are higher, but they’ll match the lower Ray Allen prices if you call them.
If we add a stainless steel 10-32 rod end like McMaster 59915K481 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#59915K481) similar to the one pictured above, we have a simple linkage that uses the existing bellcrank hole with no fabrication required. I plan to use an AN6 bolt, washers and castle nut with it.
Since I’ve already bought the 8-32 clevises and rod, this will cost us extra. If you haven’t ordered yet, there’s very little difference in cost using the RC-10 and rod end.
One thing to note: the Ray Allen position sensor is not compatible with the 10-32 shaft.
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Last edited by SheepdogRD on Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
Richard Holtz
Highlander N570L -- Ms. Tonka -- in gestation
If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.
Highlander N570L -- Ms. Tonka -- in gestation
If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.
- stede52
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
I have always used the Ray Allen Clevis kit and they work flawless
Steve D N419LD
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
Do I sense a bit of man period going on here? Let's calm down ladies. FYI there is no need for the RA indicators if you have a Dynon Skyview. And I believe the MGl has the same game.
- R Rinker
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
I'm missing something...please explain what a trim tab position indicator has to with a Dynon Skyview. How would an EFIS show the tab position without a sensor to read?
Rodger Rinker - Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, Canada
- SheepdogRD
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
I wasn't making any negative remarks about the Ray Allen 8-32 clevises; they're working fine on hundreds of aircraft, some of which are Highlanders. I was pointing out that there's another Ray Allen product that lets us install using the existing hole in the bellcrank, thus stepping around the re-drilling controversy.stede52 wrote:I have always used the Ray Allen Clevis kit and they work flawless
Richard Holtz
Highlander N570L -- Ms. Tonka -- in gestation
If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.
Highlander N570L -- Ms. Tonka -- in gestation
If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
I stand corrected I meant flaps sorry
- gkremers
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
If you have one of the Grand Rapids EFIS units and also their EIS engine monitor you do not need the RA position indicator. The indicator is displayed in the lower left corner of the EFIS screen. The enclosed PDF is from the GRT website. I'm sure the other EFIS companies do something similar.
Gary
Gary
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- R Rinker
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
Is the position sensor built into the servo? I was was assuming it was external...
Rodger Rinker - Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, Canada
- gkremers
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
I believe it is. There are 3 sensor wires that are normally connected to the RA trim indicator. The other 2 wires are power and ground.
Gary
Gary
- SheepdogRD
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
I thought the sensor was external, too, but the Ray Allen instructions (http://www.rayallencompany.com/RACmedia ... 2andT3.pdf) show the sensor wires coming from the servo.
Hot dog -- I think we'll have a position indicator, after all. Thanks!
Hot dog -- I think we'll have a position indicator, after all. Thanks!
Richard Holtz
Highlander N570L -- Ms. Tonka -- in gestation
If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.
Highlander N570L -- Ms. Tonka -- in gestation
If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
Ray Allen servos have a built in position sensor but they also offer an external one in case you use a servo that doesn't have a built in position sensor.gkremers wrote:I believe it is. There are 3 sensor wires that are normally connected to the RA trim indicator. The other 2 wires are power and ground.
Gary
I have one of both. My trim is a RA servo but my flaps are controlled by a linear 2 inch servo. I have the RA external sensor hooked up to that. That in turn goes to the RA indicators on my instrument panel.
I do have the MGL Voyager that has a flap and trim indicator built in but I choose to use the RayAllen panel mounted ones instead. Why, I guess I was just use to looking at them from my last panel.
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- stede52
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Re: electric trim tab actuator
Sheepdog,
For some reason my response to you didn't get posted. I wanted to tell you that I, in no way, took your comments negatively
For some reason my response to you didn't get posted. I wanted to tell you that I, in no way, took your comments negatively
Last edited by stede52 on Tue Feb 19, 2013 2:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
Steve D N419LD