Highlander Build Space
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- Location: No. California
Highlander Build Space
You 're refitting my existing shop, a 16x24 ranch outbuilding to handle building a Highlander. 110 and 220v are in. It has a concrete floor that is ballpark flat and an 8' sliding door on one end. Drill press, grinder with Multi-Tool attachment, small wire welder, no band saw. Big vise and anvil. Compressor. Stripper pole. Pretty basic, but has good ghosts.
First of all, is it even big enough to consider. Remember, I've not yet seen a finished model up close, I've only seen aircraft specs and photos. No idea as to shipping crate sizes, weight etc. Where and with what would you start with your infill in expectation of a kit showing up at the door?
What have you found that made life easier or was absolutely necessary to have and what would you have possibly changed had you have known better? Buying a boat is not an acceptable answer
Whats the best and worst of Corner in? Nose out/in?. What sort of worktable, best placement & size? Just stuff to cut down on the "How come ya dints"
You get my drift. I'm already looking for somebody else to blame schmidt on.
I've got a game plan but you guys have been there, and for all my horseing around here, I have respect and admiration for that.
Generalities or specifics; all ideas and suggestions are genuinely welcomed and appreciated even though I can guarantee some will be absolutely ignored or out right stolen and laid claim to.
Jack
Ps. Thanks, Michael. I'll try Just again.
J
First of all, is it even big enough to consider. Remember, I've not yet seen a finished model up close, I've only seen aircraft specs and photos. No idea as to shipping crate sizes, weight etc. Where and with what would you start with your infill in expectation of a kit showing up at the door?
What have you found that made life easier or was absolutely necessary to have and what would you have possibly changed had you have known better? Buying a boat is not an acceptable answer
Whats the best and worst of Corner in? Nose out/in?. What sort of worktable, best placement & size? Just stuff to cut down on the "How come ya dints"
You get my drift. I'm already looking for somebody else to blame schmidt on.
I've got a game plan but you guys have been there, and for all my horseing around here, I have respect and admiration for that.
Generalities or specifics; all ideas and suggestions are genuinely welcomed and appreciated even though I can guarantee some will be absolutely ignored or out right stolen and laid claim to.
Jack
Ps. Thanks, Michael. I'll try Just again.
J
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- Location: Cincinnati
That sounds about the same size shop we built in. After a while you start moving and raising your head slower but it worked. Wish I had thought of a stripper pole though. Could have helped in some of dark times when things weren't going as well as we would have liked. You'll have to let us know how that part works out.
If you don't have fixtures to mount the wing and fuse to while working/covering them, make a set. They will totally be worth it..
If you don't have fixtures to mount the wing and fuse to while working/covering them, make a set. They will totally be worth it..
Rick Mullins #144
Cincinnati
Cincinnati
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Nice Rick, By a fixture are you talking like a spinning jig of some sort? When the wings are on and covered do they still come all the way off or are they to the point where they just become only foldable? Whats your thoughts on some sort of air/dust exrtraction sytem- something like a small squirrell cage with a vent line? Important, nice to have or just something else to trip over? As for the pole 8' of 1-1/4 pipe (we use galvy; this is May heifer country) and a CD of Rick .James "SuperFreak - you'll be golden.
Later
Later
- scubarider2
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Not sure how you can build in such a small place. It took my 40 X 60 hangar to do mine and I could have used more room :P
But then I like things "spread out"!
You will need a spinning rack for both the wings and fuselage. I used one on one end and just a saw horse on the other. After the fuselage I switched the tips and made it workable for the wings. This makes both the building and covering much easier.
You really need to look through this forum. Loads of hot air...I mean information :lol:
I know the guys on this forum half built mine. Here is a pic.
Dennis
But then I like things "spread out"!
You will need a spinning rack for both the wings and fuselage. I used one on one end and just a saw horse on the other. After the fuselage I switched the tips and made it workable for the wings. This makes both the building and covering much easier.
You really need to look through this forum. Loads of hot air...I mean information :lol:
I know the guys on this forum half built mine. Here is a pic.
Dennis
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Live as though you were going to die tomorrow, learn as though you were going to live forever...
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The build will expand to fit the space available. You could build this plane in a single stall garage if you had to. I used a 24x36 garage, and this allowed me to have the wings on and extended for rigging and setting all of the ailerons and flaps at the same time. You could get by with less, you would just have to organize.
No special build table is needed if you go with the quick build wings, and I would have the wings set to the fuselage at the factory, an option that saves a lot of head scratching. A couple folding tables to work on is what I used. I made the inside of the garage into a paint booth when the time came.
Dave
No special build table is needed if you go with the quick build wings, and I would have the wings set to the fuselage at the factory, an option that saves a lot of head scratching. A couple folding tables to work on is what I used. I made the inside of the garage into a paint booth when the time came.
Dave
- KevinC
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- Location: Prosser, Washington
stuff to have
I used an engine stand and a saw horse to rotate the fuselage and built a wing rotator from 2x lumber. Worked great. Here are some pix.
other stuff:
good cordless drill and aircraft quality bits
hole duplicator
long #30 drill (for wing assembly - pix of use elsewhere on forum)
pneumatic rivet puller
beer fridge
Kevin
other stuff:
good cordless drill and aircraft quality bits
hole duplicator
long #30 drill (for wing assembly - pix of use elsewhere on forum)
pneumatic rivet puller
beer fridge
Kevin
- KevinC
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- Location: Prosser, Washington
toolz
John - the pvc cap on the near end is removable (see the black screw holding it in place) so you can slip it through the hole in the 2x6. The other end is cut out and the cap is glued in place. Put the pvc pieces in the spars, slip one side in & cap it and viola...
Jack - my wife says I am one and can't be duplicated. Here's a link to them @ Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/t ... cators.php
k
Jack - my wife says I am one and can't be duplicated. Here's a link to them @ Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/t ... cators.php
k
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I made a poor mans duplicator to use for the cowling fitting by bending a small piee of aluminum in half then drilling a hole through the end. By slipping an "unpulled" rivet in the one side from the inside out and having the actual part that breaks off extend out the other side it was perfect for lining up the holes and and drilling blind. I'll take a pic tomorrow if anyone is interested. Just a real last minute time saver that worked out perfect.
Paul, PA
Paul, PA